the friendliest London / 最友善的倫敦

星期五是沒有課的，但是今天我們得進畫室交報告，昨晚已經想好放學要去哪裡速寫，前兩週露看我的速寫本時，推薦了立得利路市場給我，一早起床看陽光閃亮亮的，便有了非去不可的念頭。

There is no class on Fridays, but today we had to go into the studio to hand in the essay. Last night I had planned where to go for sketching today. Lou recommended Ridley Road Market to me when she looked at my sketchbook two weeks ago. It was so sunny this morning that I was determined to go.

因為接下來的兩週老師要閉關改作業，所以我們又要放兩週假，不過有份選擇性的作業，Milltag要和倫敦藝術大學合作，進行腳踏車手背心的徵稿比賽，今早德瑞克和我們簡報了創作的概念和方向，主題是倫敦，他要我們去探索遊客所知以外的倫敦。得瑞克總是很驕傲地說倫敦是全世界最棒的城市，各個區域幾乎都是融合不同種族，他提了好幾個地名和建築物我都沒去過，我還不確定要不要參加這個比賽，但我一定會繼續速寫倫敦。

In the coming two weeks, Derek is going to go over our assignments and essays, so we have two more weeks off. However, there is an optional assignment. Milltag is going to work with UAL and produce the best jersey designs by the students. This morning Derek briefed us on the concept. The main theme is London. He wanted us to explore the insider's London. He always tells us with immense pride that London is the best city in the world. There is a mix of cultures and races in every part of the city. He mentioned several place names and buildings which I haven't visited. I am not sure if I am going to participate in the contest, but I'll definitely go on sketching London.

這麼想去達斯頓還有另一個原因，倫敦除了有地下鐵，也有地上鐵，我居然還沒搭過！

I wanted to go to Dalston so much also because I had never taken the overground because in London, apart from the underground, there is also the overground. 

我的目的地是達斯頓車站。

My destination was Dalston Junction. 

趁機偷拍一下小帥哥。

A secret shot of the cute guy. 

最後還是停在地底下啦！

In the end the train goes underground... 

達斯頓位在倫敦的東北方，從二十世紀初就有各國移民進駐，包括最早從中歐來的猶太移民，一九五零和六零年代的加勒比海移民及土耳其、越南和波蘭移民，最近幾年達斯頓還被選為英國最酷的居住地區。

Dalston is located in the northeast of London. Since the turn of the 20th century, immigrants have moved in from different countries, including the Jewish population from central Europe, Caribbean immigrants in the 1950s and 60s. Later the area was popular with the Turkish, Vietnamese and Polish emigres. In 2009, The Guardian chose Dalston as the coolest place to live in the UK. 

最近有個壞習慣，出門會準備吃的，但看到有趣的餐廳卻又忍不住走進去，這樣最後就吃了兩份食物。貝果是很便宜的東西，我抵擋不住理智進了這家很有當地味道的小店。

I have developed a really negative habit. I will prepare food whenever going out, but I can't resist the temptation of interesting restaurants. In the end I eat two servings of food. Bagels are rather affordable, and I yielded to my desire and walked in this very local store. 

點了雞肉比薩貝果。

I ordered chicken pizza bagel. 

配上我自備的明蝦白菜沙拉，還帶了我家的蒂芬妮藍叉子，難怪大家都多看我一眼，而且今天一路對我眨眼睛的中老年男子真不少。

No wonder most diners couldn't help taking a look at me because I ate the bagel with prawn coleslaw brought from home and my Tiffany blue fork. It was funny that there were a number of middle-aged and old men winking at me today. 

應該是餐廳平易近人的氛圍，對面坐下的叔叔吃著很像蔥油餅的東西，我很自然地就指著它問食物的名稱，雖然聽不懂，還是跟著唸一遍，下次再來吃吧。

It must have been the local atmosphere of the restaurant. When an old man sat down with something that quite resembles our Taiwanese green scallion pancake, I pointed at it naturally, asking him the name of the food. I didn't understand the word, but I still repeated after him. "I'll try it next time..."I thought. 

吃飽了就要去逛市場囉！

Time to explore the market after lunch! 

之前沒有看過倫敦的露天蔬果市場，這裡真的很合我的胃口！

I had never visited any outdoor veggie and fruit market in London. This is really my cup of tea. 

異國香料。

Exotic spices. 

紅紅的肉攤。

The bright red butcher's. 

肉舖前面是薰香攤。之後速寫時整個被香氣圍繞。

In front of the butcher's is the incense stand. I was enveloped by the fragrance while I was sketching later. 

可愛的小衣服。

Lovely children's clothing. 

CD攤。

The CD stand. 

熱狗麵包只要一點五磅。

The hotdog costs only 1.5 pounds. 

路兩旁的小店。

The small shop on the roadside. 

挑了一家布店速寫，外面看起來小小的，裡面可是個大世界！

I picked a fabric shop to sketch. It looks small on the outside, but on the inside it's a gigantic world! 

開始速寫便開啟今天非常特別的經驗，先是有個不知哪冒出來的老先生說：你在讀什麼啊？走過來一看又說：你在畫畫喔！然後畫到一半有名店中出來的男子走過來說：你在畫什麼呢？但他一時走不開，只好說：親愛的，我等一下再來看。同時右後方有水果小販有力的吆喝，上方的鳥叫聲，整個就是很有生氣。

When I started sketching, today's very unique experience thus unfolded. First an old man popped out of nowhere asking, "What are you reading?" After he took a closer look, he discovered that I was actually drawing. Then a clerk or maybe the owner from the shop walked to me, also wanting to find out what I was drawing, but he had other more important fish to fry, so he said, "I'll come back my dear." Meanwhile, behind my back on the right side, the fruit seller shouted loud for attention, and on top of me the birds chirped. It was such a vibrant day... 

畫完了先生還沒回來，我就進去布店晃晃，等他進來之後雖然有點敷衍，還是說：畫得很好，讓我給你一張名片吧！德瑞克說這兩週我們的任務就是畫圖、拍照和人們互動，這真是很棒的功課。

After I was done, the man hadn't come back, so I went in the store. Though he was still busy when he returned, he said to me, "You did a good job. Let me give you a business card." Derek said that our task in the coming two weeks is drawing, taking photos and talking to people. I have to say that this is very fantastic homework. 

這不是麥當勞喔！這是中東沙威瑪店。

This is not the McDonald's. It's Mc Doner selling kebab. 

市場很多老先生都長得很有味道。

Many old gentlemen in the market are good-looking in their own ways. 

我就是這樣被一攤的老先生吸引去畫他，雖然當事人看不到，左鄰右舍的攤子都幫忙偷看，還把安琪阿姨叫來，說：你看，那是你喔！之前速寫從來沒有遇到這麼熱情的民眾，所以我今天真的很驚訝，大家很想和我打成一片，讓我對倫敦有很不同的看法。

I was thus attracted by the old man of a vegetable stand to sketch him. He and his daughter couldn't see what I drew, but I didn't notice that their neighbors were observing everything for them. One of them even asked the daughter, Angie, to come forth and pointed at her in the sketch, "See, that's you!" I had never run into such enthusiastic people in London, so I was very surprised today. People tried to mingle with me, and this experience made me think very differently of London. 

曾和卡洛說過，我覺得倫敦人很習慣到處畫畫的人，他們一副沒有興趣的樣子，卡洛說他們應該是不想打擾我。市場裡的人很自然，和美術館的人潮不同。

I once told Carol that Londoners are so used to seeing people sketch. They don't seem interested in what I am drawing. Carol said it's because they don't want to disturb me. People in Ridley Road Market are very natural, and they are certainly different from museum-goers. 

那個拉安琪過來的先生說：我的帽子攤在不遠處，等會來畫我的攤吧！

The man that pulled Angie along said, "My hat stall is not far. Come to draw mine later!" 

我站在帽子攤的對面畫，後方的攤子老闆做了一件超感心的事，他搬出椅子來要我坐下來畫，這真的不是我之前認識的倫敦！畫到一半他的黑人朋友跑來，很自然地擺了姿勢要我把他畫進去。（圖左之胖先生）

I stood across from the hat stall to draw, but the owner of the stall behind me did something that would not stop moving me. He took out a chair wanting me to sit down. That was not the London I knew! Then the black friend of the hat guy came, and he died to be part of the sketch as well. (The chubby man on the left of the image)

雖然我沒有把帥老闆畫得很像，他很想要我的速寫，我說會送給他，但他要讓我拍一張照片，撕下來的同時我聲明：我很少這樣撕速寫本，所以你一定要好好珍惜！

Though my figure doesn't resemble the handsome guy, he wanted my sketch very much. I told him that I would give it to him as long as he let me take a photo of it and him together. While tearing the page off, I   explained, "I hardly give away my sketches from the sketchbook, so it's very precious and take good care of it." 

神奇的是，這個市場超多魚攤的。

Surprisingly, there are many fish stalls in this market. 

我挑了這家畫，本來其中一位先生還略帶殺氣地走過來看。

I chose this one to draw, and one of the workers walked up to me defensively. 

畫得差不多時，胖老闆出現了，他揮揮手叫我過去，看了圖說：為什麼沒有我？我回答：因為你不在啊！我只好把他塞在兩個人中間，他又說：我怎麼只有背影？然後大家都跑來和我小聊，有個先生還說：你的文字是中文還日文啊？他又說他去過福建和廈門。老闆最後還說：你需要魚嗎？雖然他沒有講得很白，但我想他是要送我的意思，我很客氣地說我只是想畫圖。畢竟人家也是辛苦賺錢過生活的啊！

When I was almost finished, the round owner showed up. He waved at me asking me to show him the image. After he looked at it, he asked, "Why am I not there?" I replied, "You weren't here when I drew." I did my best to squeeze him between his employees, and he said, "Why isn't my face shown?" Then everyone came to chat with me. One of the men asked me if my handwriting is Japanese or Chinese. He said he had been to Hokkien and Xiamen. In the end the owner offered to give me free fish. I told him very politely that I wanted nothing other than drawing. After all, he works hard to earn a living! 

會不會是倫敦知道我在這裡的日子有限，所以從現在開始趕緊讓我看到很好的一面？還好我從匈牙利回來之後有了要好好認識倫敦的領悟，不然這個城市多冤枉啊！

I am wondering if it's because London knows that my days here are numbered, it has to present the best sides to me? Luckily I had the epiphany that I have to explore the city after coming back from Budapest, or I would misunderstand this place forever. 

回家路上捕捉到的FCKF，其實就是山寨版的KFC，還有什麼HFC，這個全世界都一樣啦！

On my bus ride home, I had a glimpse of FCKF, which derives from KFC. There is also HFC...When it comes to fakes, the whole world is the same!