Saturday, April 14, 2012

Dublin / 都伯林


都伯林位於愛爾蘭東海岸線的中間點,在愛爾蘭語的意思是「黑色的水灘」。是個適合散步的城市,感覺很平易近人,但也很有自己的個性。

Dublin is situated near the midpoint of Ireland's east coast. In Irish, the name means "black pool." It is a city for taking walks because of its size. Though Dublin doesn't have impressive grandeur, it is quite idiosyncratic.


利非河將都伯林分成南北兩邊。

River Liffey flows through Dublin. 


城市裡處處可見到名人或傳奇人物的雕像。這是虛構人物茉莉馬龍,是在都伯林街上賣魚的美麗女子,因高燒早逝,她的主題曲已成為都伯林的國民歌曲。

Statues of celebrities or legendary figures can be found everywhere in the city. This is the fictional character Molly Malone, w beautiful fishmonger on the streets of Dublin. She died young of a fever. Her theme song has become the unofficial anthem of Dublin. 


雪茄專賣店,就像這個城市,不是很搶眼,但很有想法。

Cigar shop. It is right like this city. If Dublin were a person, I would think of him as not someone who shines on the outside, but he definitely had his take on life. 


這年頭還有人用公共電話!

I was surprised to see the pay phone used in an era of smartphones!




都伯林是個名符其實的文學之城,眾多諾貝爾文學獎得主來自愛爾蘭,更不用說英國文學史上的文學大家如喬依斯、王爾德等等。喬依斯的大作尤利西斯都伯林人都是以都伯林的背景和人們作為靈感來源,雖然喬依斯離開愛爾蘭之後旅居歐洲,他寫作的題材總是以故鄉的首都為主,他曾說過:如果我能到都伯林之心,我就能到世界上所有城市的中心。

Dublin is a city of literature. Many Nobel laureates come from Ireland. Also, there are also influential writers in English literature such as James Joyce, Oscar Wilde etc. Joyce's renowned works Ulysses and Dubliners are both based on the city and its people. Though Joyce emigrated to other European cities in his early twenties, his writing always revolved around Dublin. He once said, "Because if I can get to the heart of Dublin, I can get to the heart of all the cities of the world." 

走在路上連酒吧的玻璃窗上都印有詩句,儘管我之前很努力想閱讀喬依斯的作品,最後屢屢放棄,我還是被都伯林的氣息影響,買了王爾德的短篇故事集。

Take an ordinary bar on the street for example. I found a poem printed on the glass window. I made several attempts to read Joyce's works and eventually gave up. However, I was still influenced by the literary atmosphere of the city and bought a collection of Wilde's short stories. 




愛爾蘭的傳統產業包括啤酒製造,酒吧看起來比英國的多彩。

Brewing and distilling is one of Ireland's traditional industries. The bars look more colorful than the British ones. 






要嚐道地的愛爾蘭食物就得去酒吧。

We believed that we could find really local food in bars. 


啤酒燉牛肉配上馬鈴薯泥。

Guinness beef stew with mashed potatoes. 




依莉莎白一世為了將都伯林改造成新教徒城市,於1592年建立三一學院為唯一的新教大學。

In order to make Dublin a Protestant City, Queen Elizabeth I of England established Trinity College in 1592 as a solely protestant university. 


在有校園的大學裡漫步感覺真好!我一直想我在倫敦的求學生活如此疏離是不是和我讀的學校有關,因為倫敦藝術大學沒有校園,每個分校都是獨立的建築,認識的人也都念藝術,而藝術家多半活在自己的世界裡。

It was wonderful to walk on campus of a university! I've always wondered if my feeling detached in London has much to do with the school I go to. UAL doesn't have any campus. Every school has only a building to itself. People I know all study art, and most artists live in their own worlds. 


我們來到三一大學是為了一睹凱爾斯書,它是世界上年代最久遠的手抄新約聖經,可追溯到八世紀,其中包括了西方書法和島風字體和各種書寫的華麗裝飾。

We were here to take a look at Book of Kells. It is the oldest illuminated manuscript Gospel book in Latin, created by Celtic monks in the 8th century. It is also a masterwork of western calligraphy and Insular illumination. 







都伯林城堡建於1204年,當時的目的是防禦用。

Dublin Castle was built in 1204 as a major defensive work. 


不過自從1922年愛爾蘭脫離英國獨立之後,這裡就作為政府辦公用建築。這是城堡花園。

However, since the establishment of the Irish Free State in 1922, the castle has been used a major Irish government complex. This is the castle garden. 

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