Brussels / 布魯塞爾

離開巴黎之後，我對她的光采一直念念不忘，再加上很多人聽到我們要去布魯塞爾的反應都是：你們為什麼要去那裡？我們只好搬出要去吃巧克力的薄弱理由。

After leaving Paris, I have been living in my obsession with the city. Besides,  a lot of people react negatively when hearing that our next destination is Brussels. When asked why we choose to go there, I can't even convince myself that tasting chocolate is a self-justifiable reason. 

不過我選了一家價錢親切、老闆人又和善的民宿─鑽石皇后，雖然我們只住了兩晚，但真的很有家的感覺。

Fortunately I found a B and B at a more-than-reasonable price, and the hosts are really wonderful people--La Dame de Carreau. Though we spend only two nights, it feels very much like home. 

人/ People 

要找到比巴黎人閃亮的城市人當然是不太可能的事，儘管我的雙眼被蒙蔽，我還知道自己是不客觀的。

It is nearly impossible to find another city whose people are as glamorous-looking as Parisians. Despite my bias, I know from the beginning to the end that I am not objective. 

但反過來說，布魯塞爾比較放鬆，人們看起來很樸實。

On the other hand, it feels more relaxing in Brussels, and people look more down-to-earth. 

我們家的樂天派妹妹嘉蕊每到之處必說：這裡好美喔！我要住在這裡！有趣的是，她和好友朵樂絲在巴黎過度操勞，所以她對巴黎印象不是很正面，想不到她一到布魯塞爾就被相對緩慢的腳步吸引，讓我也跟著想這個地方還不錯。

My super-optimistic friend Jazel is in the habit of saying, "It's beautiful here! I want to live here!" whenever we visit a new place. Interestingly, she and her friend Doris are exhausted by their superhuman itineraries in Paris, so she doesn't think very highly of the city. And she immediately falls in love with the relatively slow pace of Brussels upon arriving, which makes me believe that this can be a rather nice place. 

有一天偶然走入Midi車站附近的地區，每間北非、土耳其風格的茶館塞滿了男人，只有男的喔！

One day I again, accidentally walk into the neighborhood near Midi Train Station. Every  Turkish/north African style tea house is packed with men, only men! 

不知是我自己的感覺還如何，比利時講法文和荷蘭語，比利時好像活在法國的陰影下，其實有些名人是比利時人，例如超現實派畫家瑪格利特。

In Belgium, the official languages are French and Dutch. It might be my illusion, but I have the feeling that Belgium lives in the shadow of France. In fact, some really famous people are from Belgium, such as the world-renowned surrealist painter Rene Magritte. 

還有香頌史上重要的角色─賈克布雷。

Also, a very important figure in the history of chansons--Jacques Brel. 

建築/ Architecture 

位於大廣場上的市政廳，建於十五世紀前半。

Brussels Town Hall is situated on Grand Place. It was built during the first half of the 15th century. 

大廣場是布魯塞爾的重要景點，最早原本是市集，所以這個地方在荷蘭文裡的說法是「大市場」之意。現在則是商店林立，特別是巧克力店。

Grand Place is one of the major tourist attractions in Brussels. At the beginning, it was used as market, so in Dutch it is called Grote Markt. Now it is lined with shops, especially chocolate stores. 

公會廳。

Guildhalls.

十五世紀市政廳建了之後，十六世紀初布蘭邦公爵在市政廳對面建了國王之屋相抗衡，因為建於原本的布料麵包市場上，這棟建築在荷蘭文裡又叫作麵包之屋，這個名稱比較容易懂，因為並沒有國王住在裡面。

After the construction of Brussels Town Hall, Duke of Brabant built Maison du Roi opposite the hall in the early 16th century. Since it was built on the site of the first cloth and bread market, it is called "Broodhuis (Bread house)" in Dutch. The latter makes more sense because no king ever lived inside. 

最有名的尿尿小童，真跡很小。傍晚之前去的妹妹們拍到小童被裝扮成吸血鬼卓九拉喔！

The most famous Manneken Pis. The real sculpture is quite small. My young companions go before 6 pm and take photos of the boy dressed as Dracula! 

聖凱特琳廣場。

Place Ste. Catherine. 

比利時以淡菜出名，聖凱特琳廣場附近有很多海鮮餐廳。但是布魯塞爾的消費和巴黎也差不到哪裡去，在旅客景點看起來不怎麼樣的餐廳，一客牛排加薯條十三四歐是跑不掉的，那就更別說高級餐廳了。

Belgium is known for its mussels. Around Place Ste. Catherine, there are rows of seafood restaurants. However, the costs of dining out are no less than those of Paris. Even an ordinary-looking restaurant (which looks more like a fast-food place) near major tourist attractions offers a meal of steak and chips at the price of at least 13 euros. Then you can imagine how much more money you'll have to pay in a better restaurant. 

布魯塞爾公園。在布魯塞爾散步神清氣爽的，絕對不會撞到人。

Parc de Bruxelles. It's very refreshing to take a walk in Brussels because there aren't so many people on the roads. 

王宮。比利時國王於此辦公，但住在布魯塞爾市郊的皇家城堡。

Palais Royal. The king exercises his prerogatives as Head of State and deals with affairs of state here, but he and his family live in the Royal Palace of Laeken on the outskirts of Brussels. 

王宮旁邊是皇家博物館。

Next to the palace is Musee Belvue. 

藝術/ Art

一到市中心就看見一家設計藝廊。

The moment I arrive at the city center, I find a design gallery. 

路上還是有許多好看的，特別是沙布龍地區，是古董和藝廊的聚集地。

There is still much to see. Sablon is the hub of antique shops and galleries. 

比利時是丁丁的發源地，作者艾爵是比利時人，其實比利時的漫畫業很發達，從街上的壁畫都可以感受得到。

Herge, the creator of Tintin, is from Belgium, and the comic figure is compared to the personification of the country. The comic industry here is very prosperous, which can be seen even from murals on the streets. 

地鐵站的牆面也很講究。

The metro stations are known for art on the move. 

巧克力/ Chocolate

我們就住在知名巧克力的工廠附近，不過民宿老闆說這個牌子又貴又不是特別好吃。

We stay right around the outlet of the famous chocolate brand, but the host of our BnB says the chocolate of this brand isn't especially yummy, not to mention its high price. 

老闆說一般比利時人吃的牌子是Leonidas，如果要高級貨，可以買Neuhaus，他還推薦了一個新興的品牌Marcolini，我有天偶然找到這家巧克力店，走進看真是驚為天人，眼睛一眨也不眨就立刻買了一盒立刻航空寄回家。其他品牌如Mary也不錯，還有一家到處都找得到的店Corne。台灣有Leonidas和Mary的分店，價錢都比G牌平易近人。

The host says the most people eat Leonidas in Belgium, but if you are looking for something high-class, Neuhaus is the brand. He also recommends a new brand Marcolini. One day I, once more, accidentally find the shop. When I see the chocolate, I buy a box without even thinking and mail it home right away. Other brands such as Mary are pretty nice. There is also a chain chocolate shop Corne. In Taiwan, chocolate of Leonidas and Mary is available. The prices are more friendly than the G brand. 

我來布魯塞爾最大的收穫就是完全戒掉吃巧克力的習慣，之前在倫敦動不動就會買條巧克力來啃，但後來失眠，有朋友建議我連巧克力都不要吃，比利時的巧克力又偏甜，我只不過試吃了三次，看到巧克力都怕。

My biggest happiness in Brussels is that I have completely got rid of the habit of consuming chocolate. In London I developed the bad habit of buying a bar of chocolate when I felt hungry or low. Later, some friends suggested that I not eat any chocolate because of my insomnia. Chocolate in Belgium tends to be quite sweet. I sample chocolate no more than three times, and I feel like turning away at the sight of sweets before leaving Brussels. 

啤酒/ Beer

比利時人也愛喝啤酒。

People in Belgium love to drink beer.

我在布魯塞爾最愛的是一家叫作Tropismes的書店，每天都去坐個一兩個小時看書。

My favorite spot in Brussels is a bookstore named Tropismes. I spend one or two hours reading there every day. 

最後還買了一堆書，是帶走最多紀念品的地方。再見布魯塞爾！

I end up buying a pile of books. Brussels is where I take away the most souvenirs for myself. Goodbye Brussels!