Saturday, June 23, 2012

Glasgow / 格拉斯哥


從愛丁堡前往格拉斯哥時,巧遇印度人阿尼,他說格拉斯哥的樣貌和愛丁堡很不一樣,因為前者在歷史上的發展是以工業為重心,當時聽了實在沒什麼期待。

On our way from Edinburgh to Glasgow, we encountered Anil on the bus to the  train station. He said Glasgow looks quite different from Edinburgh. The former used to be a centre of industrialization in history. Upon hearing that, I didn't have any romantic expectation of the city. 



這一集我決定先從民宿開始介紹,如幾個月前遇到的導遊說的,很多老闆拿四十年拍的照片放在網路上吸引客人,所以在網上看的和親眼看到的的確有出入。我對阿瑪迪斯沒有很美好的想像,不過一進入房子之後,立刻很驚豔。

In this episode, I decide to start by introducing the B and B Amadeus. Like a tour guide (whom we ran into a few months earlier) suggested, many B and B owners put old photos taken 40 years ago online to attract customers, so there is indeed a contrast between the images and the reality. I didn't ask for much based on what I saw on the website of Amadeus. However, I was immediately impressed after entering the house. 

格拉斯哥的秘密從門口就開始了,讀者們要注意看。

The secret of Glasgow begins right from the door. Everyone, pay great attention. 





我們的房間窗外有迷人的風景,我忍不住畫了張速寫。在這個房間裡我們開心地看了很受歡迎的「英國之聲」和休葛蘭的「新娘百分百」,這時才有種對英國文化還有好多要體驗的部份啊!

We had a remarkable room with a view. I couldn't help drawing a quick sketch of the garden outside. We had a good time watching the finale of The Voice UK and reviewing Hugh Grant's Notting Hill. It was at that moment that I realized that I would never learn enough about British culture! 


我非常喜歡畢卡索這幾張作品!

I am totally swept off my feet by these drawings of Picasso! 


娜娜在晴朗的早晨彈烏克麗麗。

Nana played the ukulele on a sunny morning. 



雖然民宿讓人流連忘返,還是得出門去逛逛。

Though Amadeus was a really brilliant place, we still had to take a look at the city. 






市中心的鬧區有不少好看的街頭表演者。

In the city centre, there were many gorgeous-looking street performers. 



格拉斯哥的建築初看之下髒髒舊舊,看久了又不覺得有那麼簡單,我想到布達佩斯的裝飾主義,因為其實仔細看,建築表面都有細部的雕刻。

The buildings in Glasgow appear to be quite washed-out at first sight, but after having seen a lot of them, I didn't think they were so simple. In fact, they reminded me of those in Budapest, which are typical of the secession art style. There are many ornate details on the facades. 



我們在起伏的街道上上下下。

We strolled on the streets that roll up and down. 





晃進了格拉斯哥藝術學校的咖啡店。

We strolled into the cafe of Glasgow School of Art. 


找到校本區之前還遇見了一位雕刻系的學生,和阿姨小聊了一下她的裝置作品。

Before finding the art school building, we came across a student majoring in sculpture.  We had a pleasant chat with the auntie about her installation work. 

格拉斯哥藝術學校的主建築是由查爾斯雷尼麥金塔設計,他是格拉斯哥享有盛名的建築師,在當地有好幾件具有代表性的作品。

The main building of Glasgow School of Art was designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh. He plays a key role in the art and architecture history of Glasgow. Certain well-known designs were attributed to him. 







麥金塔參與了英國的藝術和工藝運動和新藝術的發展。格拉斯哥為工程和造船重鎮,工業革命之後,人們對於大量生產的生活用品需求大增,麥金塔和其他設計師受到日本藝術影響,尤其是在傢俱設計方面,走簡約路線,取材於大自然,但作品又不失優雅。

Mackintosh was a designer in the Arts and Crafts Movement and Art Nouveau in the UK. Glasgow was an important production centre of heavy engineering and shipbuilding. After the industrialization revolution, the demand for mass-produced items rose. Mackintosh and other designers were influenced by Japanese culture. In the design of furniture, they preferred restraint and economy of means, simple forms and natural materials, and the use of texture, light and shadow. 








傍晚去格拉斯哥植物園散步,陽光看起來很閃亮,其實天氣很冷,我們在草地上野餐不到十分鐘便決定離開。

We went for a walk in the Glasgow botanic garden. Though the sunshine looked dazzling, it was actually quite chilly. We didn't picnic for 10 minutes before deciding to get up and go. 





西城有些小巷,都是餐聽和酒吧,晚上的人潮不斷。格拉斯哥人有自己的腔,也有很多當地的用字,只可惜我們不能久留。

There are some lanes in West End lined with restaurants and bars frequented by people in the evening. People in Glasgow speak with their own accent. They also have their own slangs. It was a pity that we didn't stay long in the city. 





格拉斯哥離愛丁堡約一個小時火車程,但愛丁堡蒼勁豪放,而格拉斯哥秀氣些。

Glasgow is about one hour away from Edinburgh by train. In comparison, the latter is grand and unconstrained while Glasgow is refined in certain ways. 



格拉斯哥大學也在西城。

University of Glasgow is also in West End. 




我們在校園裡的小角落裡探險。

We explored in the corners of the campus. 


大學有一座杭特博物館,收有歷史生物方面的珍品,其實樓梯的雕花設計也很有新藝術風格。

There is a museum in the university called Hunterian Museum with a collection of historical and biological artefacts. If you look closely, you'll notice that the design of the balustrade is quite Art Nouveau. 





離大學不遠處的凱文格洛夫美術館兼博物館,則有格拉斯哥藝術家的經典作品和其他方面的收藏。

Not far away from the university is Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum housing a collection of the classic works of artists from Glasgow and other treasures. 

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