Saturday, August 22, 2015

Maihaugen / 麥豪根露天民俗博物館


在北歐四國當中,我的最愛是挪威,除了自然風光之外,我也非常喜歡位於里耳哈默的麥豪根露天民俗博物館,其實這個博物館始自牙醫Anders Sandvig的個人收藏,他最初收藏Gudbrandsdalen(位於里耳哈默西北方的山谷小鎮)的傳統房屋和農舍於自家後院,但後來市議會提供永久的戶外展示空間給他,到了1904年,里耳哈默政府買下他的收藏,將博物館正式命名為麥豪根。

Among the four countries I traveled to in North Europe, my favorite is Norway. Apart from the magnificent natural scenery, I also love Maihaugen, an open-air museum in Lillehammer a lot. The original founder of the museum, Anders Sandvig, was a dentist. He started by collecting the farm yards and old houses from Gudbrandsdalen, a valley town in the north-west of Lillehammer. In the beginning, he placed his collections in his backyard, but as it grew, the town council of Lillehammer offered him a permanent site for the museum. In 1904, the city of Lillehammer set aside an area known as Maihaugen, bought his collections, and established the museum formally.  


        麥豪根現有超過兩百棟建築,有住家、學校、郵局、商店、火車站等等,訴說著Gudbrandsdalen從中谷世紀到現代的歷史和文化,同時博物館也藏有從中世紀留下來的傢俱和古物。

     Maihaugen accommodates more than 200 buildings now, including houses, a school, a post office, shops, a train station and so on. It records the culture and history of Gudbrandsdalen from the Middle Ages to the present. Also, the museum also collects furniture, artifacts, etc. from the Middle Ages. 

        其中的明星建築是木造教堂史塔夫,有一千兩百年歷史,由直立式木板架起,於1882年解體賣給Sandvig,在1920-1921年重新組裝並展示於麥豪根。

     The main attraction is the Garmo Stave church, a wooden church with a history of 1,200 years. It was disassembled and sold to Sandvig in 1882, reassembled and shown in Maihaugen in 1920-1921. 



        教堂建築的細節很有個性,我個人覺得粗獷又秀氣。

     The architectural style of the church is rather unique. I feel it is masculine and feminine at the same time. 



        不像歐洲大陸許多金碧輝煌的教堂,史塔夫的內部樸實溫暖,還有穿著古典服飾的工作人員為大家解惑,我和年輕女孩瑪格聊了一會兒,不禁得說:和挪威人說英文,耳朵感到很舒服!

     Unlike many other luxurious and grandiose European churches, the inside of Stave is plain yet warm. I ran into one young staff member, Margot, dressed in the traditional costumes working there. I have to say, I really enjoy speaking English to Norwegians! 



        麥豪根有三大區:鄉村區、城鎮及住宅區,其中鄉村散布著風景宜人的小湖泊,造景優美。

     There are three sections in Maihaugen: the rural area, the town and the residential area. The rural area is scattered with many small ponds surrounded by green trees. 



        這是古早的學校,法國遊客擠滿了小教室,似乎正在上很有趣的課。

     In the school, a group of French tourists seemed to be taking an extremely interesting class.




        當時人們在木屋下方用石頭奠基,以免木頭容易受潮,屋子前方養豬隻。

     Ancient Norwegians built wooden houses on layers of stones so that the wood wouldn't be dampened. In front of the house is a pigsty. 



        小男孩和雞相遇的畫面。

     The encounter between a little dog and a rooster is lovely. 



        導遊安迪說臨時演員墾地的方式不是很專業。

     Andy, our tour guide, commented that the way the staff farms the land isn't quite professional. 



        房門和屋子內部的空間都不是很高。

     Strangely, the ancient houses are rather low-ceilinged for tall Norwegians. 



        初進到屋裡,小女孩正在編頭髮,後來很羞澀地開始演奏,雖然是剛入門的階段,不過她實在長得太像天使了,令人不得不喜歡她。

     When we sauntered into the house, the staff was plaiting hair for the little girl. She was quite shy about playing the violin in front of the visitors at first. Though she is just a beginner, her innocent and angelic beauty really won us over. 



        從屋子望出去的景色如詩如畫。

     The view from the window is so poetic. 



        古典的紅色郵筒。

     The classic red mailbox. 



        要不是跟團趕行程,我可以在麥豪根待一整天!到處都是美景,簡單雋永。

     If I hadn't traveled with a tour group, I promise I could spend an entire day in Maihaugen! There are picturesque scenes everywhere, simple and everlasting. 



        湖裡也有故事,我遇見團員們正在安置一隻受驚的小鴨,據說牠被一群成鴨推下水,本來以為是牠媽媽,但母親似乎不會如此兇狠。

     One can find stories in every corner. On my way I ran into some fellow travelers taking care of a duckling. It is said to have been pushed into water by a group of ducks while it couldn't swim yet. However, it didn't feel like they did it out of good will. 



        果然沒多久牠們便殺氣騰騰地出現,四處尋找小鴨,躲在草叢的小鴨嚇得發抖。希望牠最後安然無事才好。

     They immediately appeared at the other end of the pond, looking for the duckling with hostility. The duckling, hiding in the grass, was shivering with fear. Oh, how we hope it would be safe and sound until it found its parents. 



        接著我晃到現在的住宅區,隨年代有不同的風格。基本上用色清爽,簡單明朗。

     Then I strolled to the residential area. The architectural styles kind of vary based on the eras. However, the use of colors is bright and eye-pleasing without being complicated. 





        室內設計也走溫馨風。來到挪威必知:挪威原本是歐洲最窮的國家,但1970年在北海發現油田之後,之後命運完全翻轉,一躍爲歐洲最富有的國家,人民也都享受到財富。

     The interior design gives off a warm feel. We were constantly updated on one important fact about Norway: It used to be the poorest country in Europe, but after the discovery of the oil field in the North Sea in 1970, Norway became the richest European nation. The government shared the newly-found riches with its people. 



        挪威人在設計上蠻愛紅色的。

     Norwegians seem to have a thing for the red color. 



        踏入鎮上偶遇郵差。

     I ran into the postman upon stepping into the town. 



        鎮上有商店街。

     The town is lined with shops. 





        紅通通的郵局和郵差車。

     Fire-red post office and post office vehicles. 



        輸送信件和貨物的火車。

     Also the post train. 



        最後以在博物館的午餐收尾,北歐人好喜歡把祕魯苦蘵(圖中橘黃色果實)當甜點呢!

     We topped the trip off with a three-course meal in the museum.  We ate goldenberries for desserts twice in North Europe! 

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