Sunday, August 23, 2015

Oslo 1 / 奧斯陸 1


維京博物館:

        在挪威旅行四天之後,回到了首都奧斯陸,首先我們拜訪了維京博物館,這一天遇到很會說故事的導遊溫蒂,雖然當時自以為都聽進去了,現在記得的卻不多,那麼我用簡易的方法把維京人的歷史和習俗帶過:

        維京年代從西元八百年持續到一千零五十年,以他們稍殺掠奪的行徑聞名,不過也以高度科技和工藝發展著名,特別是造船的技術。當時工匠備受尊重,各種工藝產品上都裝飾有繁複的設計,舉上圖的奧賽柏格號為例,船隻細節有各式圖騰雕刻。

        維京年代有陪葬的習俗,陪葬物品視死者的社會地位而定,有權有勢者通常被放入完整的船隻埋葬,而且就像古代中國,也有活人陪葬的規矩。

        維京博物館展覽三艘船隻,上圖的奧賽柏格號,年代大致是西元820年,於1904年出土於奧斯陸西南約一小時半車程的Vestfold County,除了船之外,同時也發掘雪橇、馬車、床、木刻和編織品。

Vikingskipshuset:

     After traveling around Norway for four days, we made our way back to Oslo. Our first stop was the Viking Ship Museum. We were accompanied by a great guide, Wendy, from Taiwan. She is a fantastic story-teller. I thought I had kept her words in mind, but unfortunately, I didn't. Well, let me give a brief introduction of the history and culture of the Vikings after doing some quick research: 

     The Viking Age in Scandinavia lasted from 800 A.D. to 1050 A.D. They are known for savage rampage as well as their technological advancements and highly-developed crafts, especially in terms of ship-making and navigation. Craftsmen enjoyed a high social status back then. Wood works such as ships were decorated with complicated designs. Take Oseberg, the ship in the photo above, for example. Animal totems like intertwined horses, snakes and birds can be found on the bow. 

     Before Christianity was introduced into North Europe, the locals buried the deceased with grave offerings which varied according to their social positions. Affluent and powerful people were usually put into complete ships, and like in ancient China, there was also the custom of burying people alive as part of the offerings. 

     Three ships are on display in the museum. Oseberg, in the photo above, was dated back to 820 A.D. It was excavated in Vestfold County in the southwest of Oslo, about 1.5 hour-drive away. Apart from the ships, sledges, horse carts, a bed, wood carvings and textiles were also found at the excavation site. 





維吉蘭雕刻公園:

     夏天的奧斯陸路上,櫻桃樹結果了,栗子樹也結果了,人們在陽光下散步,享受夏日。維吉蘭公園有藍天白雲綠地。

Vigelandsparken: 

     In summery Oslo, the cherry trees and chestnut trees at roadsides have borne fruit. People walk and sit under the sun to enjoy summer days. In Vigelandsparken, you can have the blue sky, white clouds and green meadow all at once. 



     還有令人歎為觀止的雕刻作品。這個公園有212件雕刻作品,幾乎由維吉蘭一人獨立完成,同時他還規劃整座公園的設計。

     維吉蘭公園的主題就是人生,我們從後門進入,首先見到是這座人生之輪,有四大人一小孩,交纏在永恆的輪迴中。

     And there are also 212 awesome sculptures in the park, which were almost entirely made by the artist Gustav Vigeland. He also designed the layout of the whole park. 

     The major theme of the park is about human life, struggle and emotions. We entered from the back, so we were first greeted by the Wheel of Life, which is a sundial positioned at the end of the park. It represents the eternity, with four adult figures and a baby in a circle floating in harmony. 



        以女性軀體為主題的雕刻門。

     This is the door featuring the female body. 



        「人生柱」是公園裡最吸睛的作品之一,高達十四公尺,包括121個交疊的人體雕刻。

     The Monolith is the highlight of the park. The column is 14 meters high, carved in one single stone. It is made up of 121 intertwined human figures desiring to reach the divine.



        這件作品要表達的是人想要超脫輪迴的慾望,由維吉蘭和三位工匠花了十四年時間完成。

     Vigeland, along with three other stone carvers, took fourteen years to finish the piece. 



        圍繞在人生柱周圍的是三十六件依青年、壯年、老年為主題的單件雕刻。這是媽媽給成年女兒的愛撫。

     Around the monolith are thirty-six sculptures based on three stages of the human life, which are respectively the young age, the adulthood, and the old age. The mother in the photo is bidding her adult daughter farewell before her wedding. 



        生氣的小女孩,眼神非常生動。

     The look in the angry girl's eyes is so vivid. 



        「噴泉」也是重點作品,導遊溫蒂說,中心設計的六個人抬起源源不絕的水流代表國家要給人民的財富和福利,所以從剛才的人生輪和人生柱走到這裡,雕刻作品的重心已經從個人擴大到國家群體了。

     The Fountain is also a focal point. Wendy said that from the Wheel of Life to the Fountain, the theme is expanded from an individual's life to that of a nation. For example, the flowing water in the fountain symbolizes the riches that the government would like to share with its people. 



        噴泉周圍圍繞著六十件銅雕作品,代表人從生到死的所有階段和情緒。

     The fountain is surrounded by sixty bronze sculptures telling the stories of every phase from life to death. 



        這是進入青春期的小女孩,充滿困惑和混亂的感覺。

     The girl entering her teens is full of confusion and fear. 



        噴泉底座周圍還有更多淺浮雕。

     The bottom of the fountain is decorated with more bronze reliefs. 



        焦慮的成年婦女。

     Worried adult woman. 



        我們要戰勝恐懼還是被恐懼征服?

     Will we conquer fear or the other way round?



        走上從噴泉通往大門的橋上,傳來手風琴樂手悲愴的琴聲,瞬間使當下更有感覺。

     As we stepped on the bridge that leads from the fountain to the gate, the heart-piercing music of the street performer made the visit even more unforgettable. 



        橋上兩側有58件雕刻作品,據說維吉蘭都把女性雕刻地很健壯。

     There are fifty-eight sculptures along the side railings of the bridge. Wendy said that Vigeland tended to portray women as sturdy. 



        銅雕「憤怒的小男孩」因為只有單腳著地,尺寸也比一般成人的雕刻小,比較好移走,可能是這樣,所以曾經失竊過。至於金色拳頭則是觀光客和他握手磨出來的。

     The iconic bronze statue "The Angry Boy" was once stolen in the 1990s. As for the golden hand, it resulted from too many visitor's wanting to hold his hand while taking photos. 



        從一進入公園我就讚嘆維吉蘭的天份和產量,他在1921到1943年間打造了整個公園,也捐出他的作品,每一件都打動人心,直到走到公園前門才見到他的雕刻像,結果上半身還佈滿鳥屎,不過那一點都不減維吉蘭在我心中的地位!

     I didn't stop wowing at Vigeland's creativity and prolific works along the way. He spent more than twenty years from 1921 to 1943 creating the park. He also donated his sculptures to the city, each of which spoke to me. Not until we reached the entrance of the gate did we got to meet him. Though his upper body was covered in bird droppings, I still admire him all the same! 

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