Busan 7 / 釜山 7

釜山是海港，海景挺迷人的。

Busan is a harbor with beautiful seascape. 

Bulguksa / 佛國寺

佛國寺位於慶州，慶州是韓國的古都，和其他城市相比很有歷史感。

Bulguksa is located in Gyeongju, which is the ancient capital of Korea. It is a beautiful place with a long history.

爸爸 / Dad 

Busan 6 / 釜山 6

攝於慶州佛國寺 / photos taken at Bulguksa Temple, Gyeongju City

攝於慶州普門湖公園 / photos taken at Bomun Lake Resort 

Busan 5 / 釜山 5

跟團的有趣之處在於遇見各式各樣的人，這次的導遊先生楊哥是位六十歲的潮男，每天看他的打扮，我不禁深有感觸：世界上只有懶男人，沒有醜男人。

Something fun about traveling with a tour group is that I'll get to meet interesting people. Our tour guide Mr. Young is a sixty-year-old man who is really meticulous about his looks. He gives us different visual surprises every day, which makes me feel that there are no ugly men in the world; there are only lazy men. 

        楊哥身邊還有兩位韓國小幫手，分別是大金和小金，因為都姓金，所以就用年齡區分大小。大金個子不是很高，我一直以為他是大陸人在韓國工作，還不停發出「大金韓文真好啊！」的讚嘆，原來他去過大陸念書，說中文時帶著濃濃的大陸腔，打扮也有韓國時尚的fu，只是有時小細節比較不到位。

   Young is followed by two Korean assistants, whose last name is both Kim, so one is Kim Sr. and the other is Kim Jr. The former isn't very tall, but I had the impression from watching Korean drama that Korean men are generally taller than 180 cm. Thus, I mistake him for a Chinese guy working in Korea because he speaks mandarin with a thick Chinese accent. During the trip, I always wow at his fluent Korean, not knowing that he is actually a Korean who once studied in Mainland China. He sometimes wears shirts or pants of bright colors, but it's a pity that he does not pay attention to every little detail of fashion. 

        拍照小弟小金則是高達201公分的長人，原本是去日本當交換的籃球選手，不過回到韓國當完兵後，對於未來很迷惘，在家喝了兩個月的酒，胖了二十公斤，後來決定出來闖一闖，據說他並不想在韓國發展。

   Kim Jr. is 201 cm tall. He was once a basketball player living in Japan for five years as an exchange student. However, after returning to Korea, he felt quite lost upon being discharged from the army, so he did nothing but drink for two months at home, which made him gain 20 kilograms. Finally, he decided to take a try, and we were his first tour group. 

        我們看到的韓劇主角都很光鮮亮麗，但是我從這兩個年輕人身上看到當地競爭是很激烈的，而且生活費不菲，要生存真得有點本事。

   We saw only super beautiful and rich people in Korean drama, but I learn something drastically different from these two people. The living costs in Korea have soared and competitions are rather keen. Young people have to go all out if they want to get somewhere. 

        方臉的韓國司機開著遊覽車從首爾到釜山，看起來是不苟一笑的中年男人，逛完彩妝免稅店，我坐在店外閒閒沒事，便速寫起司機的側臉，結果領隊佳玲把速寫本遞到司機面前，他還很有興趣地翻翻前面的作品，請他簽名時根本就像是在家練好等著哪天人家請他簽的那麼專業。

   Our square-face Korean driver is from Seoul. He rarely smiles or greets us. On our shopping day, while waiting for the other travelers, I sit on the doorsteps after finishing shopping. Then it occurs to me to sketch the driver. When I am done, our Taiwanese tour guide Chialeen shows the picture to the driver, who, to my surprise, takes a quick look at my previous sketches. When I ask him to sign his name, it seems that he has practiced it thousands of times at home for the day when he will eventually become a super star. 

        這次旅行最有趣的行程之一就是去泡汗蒸幕，重點是我選擇不泡，但是我還是進到大堂裡，看著韓國人或坐或躺，打手機吃泡麵看電視睡覺，就像在家一樣自在。

   The highlight of our trip is the visit to a local sauna. Though some people choose to wait rather than experience the sauna bath, we are still led into the lobby. I find Koreans really at ease here as if it were their home. They sleep, watch TV, eat and play with their cellphones, and our presence doesn't influence them at all. 

        外頭的天氣像颱風天一樣，可是大家在汗蒸幕裡很舒服。司機看到這一張直說我的韓文寫錯了，還一直說躺在圖中的兩個人是司機和wife。

   It rains like a typhoon day outside, but it feels cozy in the sauna. When the driver sees this sketch, he can't help correcting my Korean handwriting. He also keeps saying that the two people lying in the picture are the driver and his wife. Well, he has tried his best in telling a Korean-style joke! 

        透過速寫看到的韓國人其實很可愛呢！

   Through sketching, I find Koreans to be quite lovely! 

Busan 4 / 釜山 4

機場裡有很多事物在發生，如果能夠在機場速寫個三十天，一定也能出本書。這是桃園機場飛機卸行李和上行李的景象。

Many things are happening in airports. If I could sketch for a month in an airport, I would definitely come up with a book with many stories in it. This is how our luggage is unloaded and loaded into the airplane, which must have a huge stomach!

        我的跟團旅行從我又到處速寫的那一刻變得有趣，沒有行程的最後一天，我在釜山機場裡仍然找到喜樂的理由。

   My trip immediately becomes interesting when I decide to sketch wherever I go. Even on the last day without any itinerary, I can still find my reason for being in Gimhae International Airport in Busan. 

Busan 3 / 釜山 3

吃完油滋滋的烤肉，肚子很撐卻閒不下來的傍晚，在旅館房間速寫。外頭下著雨，街道上排了幾輛遊覽車，但當地人不多，八月末的釜山有點蕭颯。

Trapped on a rainy evening in the hotel room after a huge meal of Korean barbecued meat, I sit down to sketch the cityscape of Busan. The street is again lined with neon signs of various colors. Though there are some coach buses parked on one side of the street, it feels kind of lonely outside.

        街上塞滿了招牌，我得擠著雙眼才稍微能抄下像幾何圖形的韓文，遠方的港口有好幾座巨大的機器，我說不上來是做什麼用的，看起來像巨人的朱紅色座椅。

   I have to squeeze my eyes to copy the geometric shapes of the Korean language on the signs. Far away gigantic machines scatter the harbor. I can't quite name them, but to me they look like vermilion chairs of giants.

        畫著畫著，突然覺得釜山好像基隆，是寬敞先進版的基隆，不過基隆沒有美麗的大教堂就是了。

   As I draw, it occurs to me that Busan is another Keelung (the city on the northern tip of Taiwan). But Busan is much bigger and better developed. Also, there is no magnificent church in Keelung....

        儘管如此，我還是挺喜歡這個城市，於是隔天五點半又爬起來畫一次同樣的街景。

   Still, I like the city. Thus, I get up at 5:30 a.m. the next day to draw the same scene again.

Busan 2 / 釜山 2

八月底的釜山已散發濃濃的秋意，雨又下個不停，感覺像是到了離台灣盛夏很遠的地方。

Fall arrives in late August in Busan. There is also ceaseless rain. I feel like being somewhere very far away from the summery Taiwan. 

        釜山處處都是銀杏樹，不過樹葉還是翠綠的顏色，導遊說到了秋天，樹葉就會轉成黃綠色，非常之浪漫。

   There are gingko trees everywhere in Busan. Though the leaves are still lush green, our tour guide says they will turn mustard green in autumn. I can already imagine that in my mind. 

        楓葉預告秋季的到來。

   Maple leaves are ready to usher in the autumn season. 

        松樹結滿淡綠色的毬果。

   Pine trees are loaded with milk-green cones. 

        下雨時松針的眼淚垂在枝緣，看起來楚楚可憐。

   Raindrops hang on the edges of pine leaves, which possesses appealing beauty for me. 

Busan 1 / 釜山 1

跟團去釜山，悶得要發慌之際，發現了札嘎其漁市，簡直就像找到精神上的慰藉。釜山街道上的招牌五顏六色，讓我想到之前在英國的老師露意絲說：好像把所有顏色都倒到紙上了。市場對面一整排的海產店吆喝客人，這場景台灣到處也都找得到。

I travel with a tour group to Busan, South Korea. While I am almost bored to death by the standardized itineraries, luckily, I find the amazing Jagalchi Market, which is godsend gift for me.

   The shop signs are so colorful that I think of what my tutor Luise in Camberwell once said to me, "It feels like you've poured all the colors onto the paper." The street is lined with seafood restaurants whose servers solicit customers in front of the doors. In fact, this is a familiar scene we can find everywhere in Taiwan too.

        釜山臨海，海產豐富自不在話下，不過這未免也太驚人了。

   Busan is a sea harbor, so it makes sense that the city is rich in sea resources. Yet, the gigantic shellfish are rather visually shocking. 

        札嘎其市場非常大，一樓排列著無數的魚販，賣著各種看起來很神奇的海鮮。

   Jagalchi Market is quite vast. The first floor is lined with numerous fish vendors, selling so many kinds of seafood that I can't name. 

        客人先挑選喜歡的魚產，再由店家做成生魚片。

   Basically it works like this: Customers pick fish that interest them, and the fish vendors will turn it into yummy sashimi for them. 

        二樓則是巨大的食堂，食客們脫鞋坐在高起來的木頭地板上，品嚐各式各樣的海鮮料理。

   The second floor is a widely-stretching food court. The customers sit on the wooden floor with their shoes taken off, merrily enjoying an array of seafood cooked in various manners. 

        雖然想來點著名的生章魚料理，但我滿肚子都是辣炒年糕，看到在水缸裡游動的章魚也覺得於心不忍。

   Though I am tempted to try the famous octopus cuisine, my stomach is filled with Tteokbokki, a popular Korean snack food made from soft rice cake, fish cake and sweet red chili sauce. Also, I think it's cruel to swallow it alive while it is still writhing with life. 

        好不容易從旅行團領隊得到一個半小時的自由，不如來速寫吧！選了個從樓梯間高處臨下的好地點，便開始記錄韓國庶民生活的樣貌。旅行了三天，對於很單一的韓國文化感到無聊，途中也沒有機會和韓國人交流，速寫之際，先是一位先生跑來和我說他是念藝術的，原本搞不清楚他是哪冒出來的，最後離場才發現他是某間店的魚販。畫到一半時，被畫的魚販有人湊過來看，回到攤位上趕緊和其他人分享，畫完時大家把我叫過去，我把模特兒一一指出來，他們多半很高興地和我說謝謝或拍照留念。最後經過藝術家的攤子時，他對我開心地笑著。原本我覺得看不透的韓國人居然變得有厚度了。

   I've finally won one and half hours of freedom from the tour guide. When I am about to forget my ability to draw, it shouts to be heard. After selecting a really wonderful site on the staircase so that I can look down, I immediately get down to work. In the beginning, no one pays attention to me except one gentleman who talks to me in Korean. He goes on to explain in English, "My major was fine art." He spoke really clear English, so I am puzzled where he popped out. As I am halfway through, the fish vendors begin to peek at my sketchbook when they pass by me. Then they would go back to their co-workers and tell them to come for a look too. When I finish the sketch, they would beckon me asking for a glance at the drawing. Though I don't speak Korean, I would point them out in the picture. Most of them seem to be glad about being my models. On my way out, I realize the artist is actually a fish vendor as well. He gives me a super bright smile, which reverses my fires impression of Koreans and Korean culture. At first, I found the people to be uniform without any variety not only in looks but also in the ways they think. Fortunately, having spent a short period of time in the market shows me that Koreans are actually more than that. 

        能夠在這麼有趣的地方一窺當地人生活的樣子，我得到喘息的空間，而我的旅行也變得不一樣了。

   It's really nice to experience how the locals live in such a fascinating place. I get to breathe and do what I want, and my trip has thus become different.