Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Busan 1 / 釜山 1


跟團去釜山,悶得要發慌之際,發現了札嘎其漁市,簡直就像找到精神上的慰藉。釜山街道上的招牌五顏六色,讓我想到之前在英國的老師露意絲說:好像把所有顏色都倒到紙上了。市場對面一整排的海產店吆喝客人,這場景台灣到處也都找得到。

I travel with a tour group to Busan, South Korea. While I am almost bored to death by the standardized itineraries, luckily, I find the amazing Jagalchi Market, which is godsend gift for me.

   The shop signs are so colorful that I think of what my tutor Luise in Camberwell once said to me, "It feels like you've poured all the colors onto the paper." The street is lined with seafood restaurants whose servers solicit customers in front of the doors. In fact, this is a familiar scene we can find everywhere in Taiwan too.



        釜山臨海,海產豐富自不在話下,不過這未免也太驚人了。

   Busan is a sea harbor, so it makes sense that the city is rich in sea resources. Yet, the gigantic shellfish are rather visually shocking. 



        札嘎其市場非常大,一樓排列著無數的魚販,賣著各種看起來很神奇的海鮮。

   Jagalchi Market is quite vast. The first floor is lined with numerous fish vendors, selling so many kinds of seafood that I can't name. 





        客人先挑選喜歡的魚產,再由店家做成生魚片。

   Basically it works like this: Customers pick fish that interest them, and the fish vendors will turn it into yummy sashimi for them. 





        二樓則是巨大的食堂,食客們脫鞋坐在高起來的木頭地板上,品嚐各式各樣的海鮮料理。

   The second floor is a widely-stretching food court. The customers sit on the wooden floor with their shoes taken off, merrily enjoying an array of seafood cooked in various manners. 



        雖然想來點著名的生章魚料理,但我滿肚子都是辣炒年糕,看到在水缸裡游動的章魚也覺得於心不忍。

   Though I am tempted to try the famous octopus cuisine, my stomach is filled with Tteokbokki, a popular Korean snack food made from soft rice cake, fish cake and sweet red chili sauce. Also, I think it's cruel to swallow it alive while it is still writhing with life. 



        好不容易從旅行團領隊得到一個半小時的自由,不如來速寫吧!選了個從樓梯間高處臨下的好地點,便開始記錄韓國庶民生活的樣貌。旅行了三天,對於很單一的韓國文化感到無聊,途中也沒有機會和韓國人交流,速寫之際,先是一位先生跑來和我說他是念藝術的,原本搞不清楚他是哪冒出來的,最後離場才發現他是某間店的魚販。畫到一半時,被畫的魚販有人湊過來看,回到攤位上趕緊和其他人分享,畫完時大家把我叫過去,我把模特兒一一指出來,他們多半很高興地和我說謝謝或拍照留念。最後經過藝術家的攤子時,他對我開心地笑著。原本我覺得看不透的韓國人居然變得有厚度了。

   I've finally won one and half hours of freedom from the tour guide. When I am about to forget my ability to draw, it shouts to be heard. After selecting a really wonderful site on the staircase so that I can look down, I immediately get down to work. In the beginning, no one pays attention to me except one gentleman who talks to me in Korean. He goes on to explain in English, "My major was fine art." He spoke really clear English, so I am puzzled where he popped out. As I am halfway through, the fish vendors begin to peek at my sketchbook when they pass by me. Then they would go back to their co-workers and tell them to come for a look too. When I finish the sketch, they would beckon me asking for a glance at the drawing. Though I don't speak Korean, I would point them out in the picture. Most of them seem to be glad about being my models. On my way out, I realize the artist is actually a fish vendor as well. He gives me a super bright smile, which reverses my fires impression of Koreans and Korean culture. At first, I found the people to be uniform without any variety not only in looks but also in the ways they think. Fortunately, having spent a short period of time in the market shows me that Koreans are actually more than that. 






        能夠在這麼有趣的地方一窺當地人生活的樣子,我得到喘息的空間,而我的旅行也變得不一樣了。

   It's really nice to experience how the locals live in such a fascinating place. I get to breathe and do what I want, and my trip has thus become different. 

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