sketches of North Thailand / 泰北速寫

到今年三月學泰文就滿兩年了，眼看著同學紛紛去了泰國旅行，我不知道在躊躇什麼，還好之前受到一些刺激，出發前覺得這趟旅行正是時候。雖然只去過曼谷兩天，我還是很有個性地選擇去泰北，別人聽了總問：「你是要去當志工嗎？」

I will have learned Thai for two years by this coming March, yet I hadn't seriously visited Thailand. Seeing my classmates head for the country one after another, I was tempted. At one point, I finally booked the plane ticket to Chiangmai, and after my granny's funeral, I felt it was the right choice. Instead of traveling to Bangkok, I somehow am more interested in the northern part of the country. 

        二月是清邁的涼季，可是一下飛機是下午兩點，走在車輛呼嘯的路上有點季節錯亂。清邁的西方旅客真不是普通的多，到處都是會說簡單英文的泰國人，要堅持海倫老師說的只講泰文有些困難，要演小劇場把學到的字都用上就更不容易了。

     The weather is rather pleasant in Chiangmai in February. A typical day starts with a cool morning, but the temperature climbs up to 30 degrees celsius by the afternoon. I am quite confused about the change of seasons when I first arrive. Despite the hot sunshine, Chiangmai is filled with westerners. Most Thai people we run into, including vendors, can speak some English words. It's definitely a challenge to stick to Teacher Helen's suggestion of speaking only Thai. 

        坐在Wawee Coffee速寫，右耳聽泰語的對話，左耳聽一群愛好泰國的美國人閒聊，窗外坐了韓國人。雖然事後回想我有很多重要的景點都沒有去，卻可以自我安慰我體驗了清邁的氛圍。

     In fact, Chiangmai is very international, more so than many other Asian cities I've been to. As I sit in Wawee Coffee, my right ear picks up the Thai words I can recognize while on my left is a table of Americans fervent about Thailand. Outside right in front of me are two Korean ladies. Though looking back on the trip, I realize I haven't been to many important tourist sites, but at least I have the excuse that I "live" in the Chiangmai way. 

        清邁光是建築就很有特色。金光閃閃的廟宇隱身在古城的道路間，剛開始還想認真地學習一下，過沒多久就被廟門口的香蕉煎餅吸引過去。

     I think one of the reasons that attract so many tourists to the city is its classical architecture. The gilded temples nestle in the labyrinth of roads in the old part of the city. In the beginning, I do have the ambition to learn, but later the roti vendor at the roadside captures my attention and wins me over. 

        如果有機會在寺廟裡平心靜氣地坐著，看小和尚打掃，聽著鐘聲和誦經聲，感受太陽西下的傍晚，其實是很美好的。

     However, if we do have an opportunity to spend a few hours in the temple waiting for the heat to fade, it's one of the best things with the company of ringing bells and monks' recitations of mantras. 

        泰北的民宿建築也相當迷人，利用樸拙的木頭配上大量綠色的植栽，就是在城市裡也有強烈的度假感。在這裡我問自己：為什麼我沒有時間停下來好好畫一棵樹？

     The architectural style of bed & breakfast in North Thailand is fascinating and relaxing with much use of wood and bonsai. Thus, it presents a strong vacation feel even inside the city. I can't help asking myself during my stay: Why don't I have time to draw a tree? 

        給我當頭棒喝的其實是在泰北看見的西方人，除了大量長期在泰國旅行的旅客外，還有一群長居在此地，有些泰語說的相當流利，所以我決定花一個早上觀察他們的生活，他們就坐在咖啡店裡消磨美好的時光，那我在趕什麼呢？因為給了自己慢下來的機會，畫這張圖時有位經過的老先生給了我亮晶晶的微笑。

     As a matter of fact, it's the westerners here that enlighten me. Apart from those who travel for more than a month around Thailand, there are also many who have settled down in North Thailand. Some of them speak Thai very fluently. I decide to spend a morning observing their daily lives. Well, they while away the hours doing nothing in cafes. They remind me to slow down, and while I am drawing, an old man gives me a beautiful smile upon seeing the picture. 

        西方人有趣，泰國人也很有趣。誤打誤撞來到瓦洛洛大市場的地下食堂，據我觀察幾乎都是當地人來吃東西，吃在泰國很便宜，到處都是路邊攤，可以想像飲食對泰國人有多重要。邊畫的背景音樂是鄧麗君的「燒肉粽」，於是那種有點陌生又有點熟悉的感覺再度浮現。

     Westerners are worth studying whereas Thai people show me things beyond what the textbook has taught. I accidentally end up in the food court in Kad Luang in Waroros. Based on my observation, it's mostly the locals that eat here. Another reason why westerners love Thailand is that food doesn't cost much, and it can be found everywhere. While I am sketching, the background music is a song sung by a famous Taiwanese singer who lived in Chiangmai before she passed away. Again, I feel that I am not in a land completely different from my culture. 

        住在素可泰時，民宿外面就是早市，我早起速寫體驗當地的風情，泰國人早餐也吃烤肉呢！

     I stay in a bed & breakfast next to the morning market in Sukhothai, which gives me a valid reason to give up early for drawing a sketch. The locals eat barbecues for breakfast too! 

        隔天買了飯供給和尚，站著畫早市的景色，透過畫畫，五感都打開了，可以更深刻地體驗當下。

     The following day I buy a bowl of rice to make an offering to a monk. Then I stand and sketch for one and half an hour. The market in the early morning opens up my five senses, which enables me to fully experience the moment in various ways. 

        我不會寫泰文，寫泰文像做痛苦的視力測驗，有時候因為沒有空間寫不下，所以真的是一片混亂。

     I can't write Thai. Actually, trying to imitate the characters feels like painful eye tests. Sometimes there isn't enough space, so I will stop abruptly. It's a really a mess, so don't read my writing at all. 

        我喜歡看僧人的風景，他們身著的各種橘色僧衣像和煦亮麗的太陽光，對我來說展現的不是疏離的出世感，反而鼓勵著我要好好過每一天。

     I love looking at the monks. Their orange robes, rather than marking their seclusion, resemble warm sunshine that encourages me to live every day to the fullest. 

        素可泰的大佛也是，我坐在菩提樹下畫圖，落英繽紛，能和有八百五十年歷史的建築面對面是多麼幸運的事呢！

     That's what the Buddha statues in Sukhothai mean for me too. I sit under the bodhi trees to sketch, feeling the falling leaves landing in graceful manners. How lucky I am to be in the embrace of 850-year-old architecture. 

        同樣寧靜的時刻也出現在河上划竹筏，時間彷彿停止了，我只要環視周邊的綠意盎然和享受泰北二月用不完的大晴天。

     I experience the same tranquility during the bamboo-raft ride. Time seems to stand still, and I have the sunny day and green scenery all to myself. 

        我也好喜歡大象和他們畫的圖！

     I also love the elephants and their superb paintings! 

        但這趟旅行我最驚奇的是雙條車和嘟嘟車人生！我遇到各式各樣的司機教我所有有關當地的事，還有泰文！

     What amazes me the most on this trip is songtaew and tuk tuk, two major local transports in Chiangmai. I came across many sorts of drivers who teach me about the region and the Thai language. 

        最後一天一個人旅行時在瓦洛洛花市遇見超high的嘟嘟車司機，一邊指導我畫圖，一邊熱情地唱著：I love meung thai! 

     On the last day when I travel alone, a hyper tuk tuk driver in Waroros flower market gives me instructions on how to draw the tuk tuk. Meanwhile, he sings out loud, "I love Thailand!" 

        去機場的路上遇見的司機阿樹一定是海倫老師和德老師派來做泰文總複習，剛好那時候我再也不擔心會不會說錯話，在一連串的對話之後阿樹問：「你會再來清邁嗎？」「會！」因為我為了速寫連因他儂國家公園和素帖山都還沒去呢！

     On my way to the airport, I encounter a bus driver named Tree, who must be sent by Teacher Helen and Teacher Der to review the lessons for me. Strangely, at that instant, I no longer worry if I'll make any mistake. After a string of questions, Tree asks, "Will you come back to Chiangmai again?" "Of course!" I am ashamed to say that I haven't even visited the major tourist attractions such as Inthanon National Park and Doi Suthep because of my need to sketch. 

        謝謝老師們，因為學了泰文，所以在這趟旅行中對泰北有了不同的體驗，視野寬闊了，也感到更加自由了。

     I really want to thank the teachers. Thanks to the Thai lessons, I've go to see North Thailand differently. My horizons have been broadened, and more importantly, I feel free and brand-new.