媽祖的生日是農曆三月二十三日，但早期北港朝天宮會在媽祖生日前夕回到湄州祭祖進香，回台的時間是三月十九日，所以會在這一天遶境北港，原本一天的遶境在民國44年也擴大成兩天。
Matsu is the sea goddess whose birthday is celebrated on March, 23 on the lunar calendar, which is around April or May on the solar calendar. However, the staff of Chao-tien Temple in Beigang, Yunlin has the tradition of taking the cult of the goddess to the homeland of Matsu in Meizhou in southeast China to worship. They return on March, 19 on the lunar calendar to Taiwan, which is why it is the date of the pilgrimage. The one-day pilgrimage was lengthened to two days after 1955.
我們一早搭高鐵，趕到北港已經九點半，遶境儀式已經如火如荼地展開。
We take the earliest HSR ride, but by the time we arrive at Beigang at 9:30 a.m., the pilgrimage has started in front of the temple.
這兩天裡，朝天宮內的六位媽祖和宮內的神明會遶境北港。媽祖從六媽開始一位一位被放在轎中迎出朝天宮。
In the two-day-long pilgrimage, the six sea goddesses (ranking from No. 6 to No. 1) and the other gods worshipped in the temple will tour around Beigang to inspect and bless the locals. The cults are placed in exquisitely-decorated palaquins carried by numerous bearers, ushered out of the temple in order.
迎神明出宮得用最高等規格，除了裝飾華麗的花轎和組織嚴密的轎班會，遶境當天絕對少不了各式砲火，我們一到北港就目睹了犁炮的威力。
Apart from the colorful palaquins and well-organized bearers, no celebration can do without firecrackers. The moment we step into Beigang, we are immediately welcomed by the "passionate" explosion.
媽祖遶境是北港年度大事，所以許多在外生活的北港人都會在這幾天回到故鄉參與盛事。每位媽祖都有特定的轎班會，而當天我在北港的感覺是整個鄉鎮都投入媽祖遶境的慶典，這是大都市裡無法體驗到的文化凝聚力。
The Matsu Pilgrimage is the yearly religious event in Beigang, so many people who grew up here will go back to their hometown at this time of the year to be part of the celebration. Every goddess has a specific group of bearers who are extremely loyal and devoted to their task. During our stay in Beigang, I strongly feel that the whole town is involved in the event, and there is such cohesive power resulting from the locals' enthusiasm for their culture.
犁炮是最古早的放炮方式，用犁頭生、也就是犁頭的鐵質部位，搭配火爐，當火爐中的木炭將犁頭燒紅，就可以用來點燃手中的排炮、或稱尺炮，並在點燃時丟向神轎。
In the photo is the earliest form of setting off firecrackers. The fire stove is topped with the iron of a coulter. When the charcoal heats the coulter, it can be used to set off the firecrackers and thrown at the palaquins when lighted.
為了看清楚整個過程，我們盡量圍聚在廟前，不過犁炮炸開當下真是震耳欲聾，煙霧瀰漫成朵朵烏雲，雖然耳膜差點被炸破，卻有種強烈的興奮感竄流全身。好多工作人員被煙燻得整張臉都黑掉了。
To witness the process, we try to gather in front of the temple, but the moment the firecrackers let off, it feels like my eardrums are about to break. Then the smoke forms into huge gray flowers floating into the sky. Despite the deafening noise, it's impossible not to feel thrilled meanwhile. Many bearers' faces turn "black" at the end of the parade because of the smoke.
當天用掉的炮不計其數，每炸完一次工作人員得開鏟土機清理。
A tremendous budget is spent on firecrackers. The remains have to be immediately cleaned by an excavator.
我覺得媽祖遶境的文化豐富度和有趣度其實不下於好幾年前去京都參加的祇園祭，不過在北港看到的外國遊客應該也是有台灣人帶領才知道這麼有意義的活動吧！而且北港有它的在地風情和特色，非常值得親身感受一番。
I visited Kyoto, Japan for the renowned Gi-on Festival in mid-summer seven years ago. In fact, the Matsu Pilgrimage in Taiwan is no less significant than that though I see only a handful of foreign tourists in Beigang. Besides the event, the unique local feel and wonderful food of Beigang also make the town a must-visit place for both Taiwanese and foreign travelers.
第一天早上把媽祖和神明迎出宮後，遊行在十點半左右結束，讓大家稍作休息。可是此時其他活動已開始準備，晚上要出來繞街的藝閣花車也在街上就位。
After the ceremony of welcoming the gods out of the temple, it's time for a quick break starting at 10: 30 a.m. At the same time, other things are going on. For example, the floats that are going to tour around the town can be found on the streets.
每輛藝閣花車有各自的主題故事，有小朋友扮演故事中的角色，也有大人扮演的樂團或歌舞團。藝閣花車是行之有年的傳統陣頭內容之一，最早的藝閣花車是用人工抬轎，隨時代演進為獸力到機械動力。
Every float has its theme based on folklore or religious stories. On some, children put on traditional costumes to play the roles in the story. Other floats feature musical or dance performance by adults. The earliest floats were carried by people, later by animals and today they are fuel-powered.
很多化妝的人手也是當地居民自願擔任，當天不論走在北港市區哪裡都有非常道地的畫面可以拍攝。
Since cosmeticians are in great demand during the celebration, many people volunteer to help out. There are indeed many special moments to capture during these two days.
下午兩點多遶境的遊行再度開始。此時朝天宮正對面的大街上有很多來自臺灣其他地區廟宇的神明進香，也搭配各式各樣的傳統表演。
The parade starts again in the afternoon. This time worshippers from other temples in Taiwan bring the statues of their gods to worship in Chao-tien Temple. The parade is accompanied by many traditional performances featuring different famous figures in Taoism.
抬轎的人員還有特別的舞步，不光只是像平常一樣走著。
The bearers seem to have their own routines. They will shake the palaquin and move their bodies at their own tempo.
神像都有著華麗的裝飾，令人看得眼花撩亂。
The statues and palaquins are dazzlingly decorated.
天色漸漸暗下，家家戶戶擺出流水席，我們受到貴美家人熱情的款待，有總鋪師準備的菜色，也有貴美姐姐的手藝，感受到北港人無限的溫暖。
As the sky darkens, it is time for dinner. Basically, people living in the same neighborhood will hire a chef to prepare the feast. Every family sits down at the round tables placed in front of their house celebrating not only with their own relatives but also with friends from afar like us. Thanks to Guei-mei, we are blessed with the privilege of experiencing the Beigang-style dinner party. I can't describe in words how friendly these people are.
六點左右藝閣花車就開始出來繞街，車上的小朋友不停地對街上的民眾遊客丟糖果，我們也撿得不亦樂乎，據說這些糖果可以保平安呢！
At six p.m., the floats will begin touring around the town. The children will throw candies at passers-by. We have so much fun picking them up. It is said the sweets will ensure us a smooth year.
藝閣繞街持續到入夜，北港市的夜晚人聲鼎沸，大家沉浸在熱鬧的節慶氣氛裡，還有超級美麗的煙火點綴夜空。
The float parade lasts late into night when the town drowns in fast-beat music and and festive fireworks.
說了很多年要來參加媽祖遶境，真的很幸運今年終於成行，這真的是台灣人一生必參加的慶典之一啊！
I thought about experiencing the Matsu Pilgrimage for years, and how fantastic it is that I've made it this year. To be honest, this is a festival that Taiwanese people have to take part in at least for once in their lifetime!
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