Goodbye May! / 五月再見！

Matsu Pilgrimage in Beigang, Yunlin / 北港朝天宮媽祖遶境

媽祖的生日是農曆三月二十三日，但早期北港朝天宮會在媽祖生日前夕回到湄州祭祖進香，回台的時間是三月十九日，所以會在這一天遶境北港，原本一天的遶境在民國44年也擴大成兩天。

Matsu is the sea goddess whose birthday is celebrated on March, 23 on the lunar calendar, which is around April or May on the solar calendar. However, the staff of Chao-tien Temple in Beigang, Yunlin has the tradition of taking the cult of the goddess to the homeland of Matsu in Meizhou in southeast China to worship. They return on March, 19 on the lunar calendar to Taiwan, which is why it is the date of the pilgrimage. The one-day pilgrimage was lengthened to two days after 1955. 

        我們一早搭高鐵，趕到北港已經九點半，遶境儀式已經如火如荼地展開。

     We take the earliest HSR ride, but by the time we arrive at Beigang at 9:30 a.m., the pilgrimage has started in front of the temple. 

        這兩天裡，朝天宮內的六位媽祖和宮內的神明會遶境北港。媽祖從六媽開始一位一位被放在轎中迎出朝天宮。

     In the two-day-long pilgrimage, the six sea goddesses (ranking from No. 6 to No. 1) and the other gods worshipped in the temple will tour around Beigang to inspect and bless the locals. The cults are placed in exquisitely-decorated palaquins carried by numerous bearers, ushered out of the temple in order. 

        迎神明出宮得用最高等規格，除了裝飾華麗的花轎和組織嚴密的轎班會，遶境當天絕對少不了各式砲火，我們一到北港就目睹了犁炮的威力。

     Apart from the colorful palaquins and well-organized bearers, no celebration can do without firecrackers. The moment we step into Beigang, we are immediately welcomed by the "passionate" explosion. 

        媽祖遶境是北港年度大事，所以許多在外生活的北港人都會在這幾天回到故鄉參與盛事。每位媽祖都有特定的轎班會，而當天我在北港的感覺是整個鄉鎮都投入媽祖遶境的慶典，這是大都市裡無法體驗到的文化凝聚力。

     The Matsu Pilgrimage is the yearly religious event in Beigang, so many people who grew up here will go back to their hometown at this time of the year to be part of the celebration. Every goddess has a specific group of bearers who are extremely loyal and devoted to their task. During our stay in Beigang, I strongly feel that the whole town is involved in the event, and there is such cohesive power resulting from the locals' enthusiasm for their culture. 

        犁炮是最古早的放炮方式，用犁頭生、也就是犁頭的鐵質部位，搭配火爐，當火爐中的木炭將犁頭燒紅，就可以用來點燃手中的排炮、或稱尺炮，並在點燃時丟向神轎。

     In the photo is the earliest form of setting off firecrackers. The fire stove is topped with the iron of a coulter. When the charcoal heats the coulter, it can be used to set off the firecrackers and thrown at the palaquins when lighted. 

        為了看清楚整個過程，我們盡量圍聚在廟前，不過犁炮炸開當下真是震耳欲聾，煙霧瀰漫成朵朵烏雲，雖然耳膜差點被炸破，卻有種強烈的興奮感竄流全身。好多工作人員被煙燻得整張臉都黑掉了。

     To witness the process, we try to gather in front of the temple, but the moment the firecrackers let off, it feels like my eardrums are about to break. Then the smoke forms into huge gray flowers floating into the sky. Despite the deafening noise, it's impossible not to feel thrilled meanwhile. Many bearers' faces turn "black" at the end of the parade because of the smoke. 

        當天用掉的炮不計其數，每炸完一次工作人員得開鏟土機清理。

     A tremendous budget is spent on firecrackers. The remains have to be immediately cleaned by an excavator. 

        我覺得媽祖遶境的文化豐富度和有趣度其實不下於好幾年前去京都參加的祇園祭，不過在北港看到的外國遊客應該也是有台灣人帶領才知道這麼有意義的活動吧！而且北港有它的在地風情和特色，非常值得親身感受一番。

     I visited Kyoto, Japan for the renowned Gi-on Festival in mid-summer seven years ago. In fact, the Matsu Pilgrimage in Taiwan is no less significant than that though I see only a handful of foreign tourists in Beigang. Besides the event, the unique local feel and wonderful food of Beigang also make the town a must-visit place for both Taiwanese and foreign travelers. 

        第一天早上把媽祖和神明迎出宮後，遊行在十點半左右結束，讓大家稍作休息。可是此時其他活動已開始準備，晚上要出來繞街的藝閣花車也在街上就位。

     After the ceremony of welcoming the gods out of the temple, it's time for a quick break starting at 10: 30 a.m. At the same time, other things are going on. For example, the floats that are going to tour around the town can be found on the streets. 

        每輛藝閣花車有各自的主題故事，有小朋友扮演故事中的角色，也有大人扮演的樂團或歌舞團。藝閣花車是行之有年的傳統陣頭內容之一，最早的藝閣花車是用人工抬轎，隨時代演進為獸力到機械動力。

     Every float has its theme based on folklore or religious stories. On some, children put on traditional costumes to play the roles in the story. Other floats feature musical or dance performance by adults. The  earliest floats were carried by people, later by animals and today they are fuel-powered. 

        很多化妝的人手也是當地居民自願擔任，當天不論走在北港市區哪裡都有非常道地的畫面可以拍攝。

     Since cosmeticians are in great demand during the celebration, many people volunteer to help out. There are indeed many special moments to capture during these two days.

        下午兩點多遶境的遊行再度開始。此時朝天宮正對面的大街上有很多來自臺灣其他地區廟宇的神明進香，也搭配各式各樣的傳統表演。

     The parade starts again in the afternoon. This time worshippers from other temples in Taiwan bring the statues of their gods to worship in Chao-tien Temple. The parade is accompanied by many traditional performances featuring different famous figures in Taoism. 

        抬轎的人員還有特別的舞步，不光只是像平常一樣走著。

     The bearers seem to have their own routines. They will shake the palaquin and move their bodies at their own tempo. 

        神像都有著華麗的裝飾，令人看得眼花撩亂。

     The statues and palaquins are dazzlingly decorated. 

        天色漸漸暗下，家家戶戶擺出流水席，我們受到貴美家人熱情的款待，有總鋪師準備的菜色，也有貴美姐姐的手藝，感受到北港人無限的溫暖。

     As the sky darkens, it is time for dinner. Basically, people living in the same neighborhood will hire a chef to prepare the feast. Every family sits down at the round tables placed in front of their house celebrating not only with their own relatives but also with friends from afar like us. Thanks to Guei-mei, we are blessed with the privilege of experiencing the Beigang-style dinner party. I can't describe in words how friendly these people are. 

        六點左右藝閣花車就開始出來繞街，車上的小朋友不停地對街上的民眾遊客丟糖果，我們也撿得不亦樂乎，據說這些糖果可以保平安呢！

     At six p.m., the floats will begin touring around the town. The children will throw candies at passers-by. We have so much fun picking them up. It is said the sweets will ensure us a smooth year. 

        藝閣繞街持續到入夜，北港市的夜晚人聲鼎沸，大家沉浸在熱鬧的節慶氣氛裡，還有超級美麗的煙火點綴夜空。

     The float parade lasts late into night when the town drowns in fast-beat music and and festive fireworks. 

        說了很多年要來參加媽祖遶境，真的很幸運今年終於成行，這真的是台灣人一生必參加的慶典之一啊！

     I thought about experiencing the Matsu Pilgrimage for years, and how fantastic it is that I've made it this year. To be honest, this is a festival that Taiwanese people have to take part in at least for once in their lifetime! 

參考網站 / reference website：

台灣厝仔之北港媽祖出巡

Lipstick / 口紅

中秋節聚餐，大家邊聊著，我邊畫圖，很希望可以借用小叮噹的神力生出一盒彩色筆，想遍了全身上下可以用來著色的工具，還好我有一支口紅，就這樣原本單色的畫面也變得繽紛。

During the Moon Festival reunion, I doodle as everyone else chats over tea. As I lose myself to the act of drawing, I wish I could conjure up a box of colored pens with Doraemon's magic. Wanting to color my sketches badly, I think of my lipstick. It not only livens up my images but also makes my day. 

Lisbon 4 / 里斯本 4

磁磚博物館 / Tile Museum 

為了去到磁磚博物館，我們被計程車司機敲竹槓，這是我們在葡萄牙負面的經驗，下次上車前一定要檢查司機有否跳表機。

To get to the Tile Museum, we were ripped off by the taxi driver. This was our only negative experience in Portugal. Make sure that the driver turns on the speedometer before you hop onto it. 

博物館收有自十五世紀至今的磁磚藝術品，同時也有設有教學展示區。

The museum contains a wide array of tiles from as early as the 15th century. Besides, there are displays on how they're made. 

博物館改建自修道院，所以空間方面也很有美感。

The museum is housed in the monastic buildings of the Madre Deus Convent. I especially love the beauty of the space design. 

我無意間看到一張美麗的臉孔。

I spotted a charming face by accident. 

這片由一千三百塊磁磚拼成的作品長23公尺，描繪1738年的里斯本市景。

This composition of 1300 tiles, 23 metres in length, depicts the cityscape of Lisbon in 1738. 

博物館也有現代的磁磚創作作品。

There are contemporary tile artworks in the museum too. 

遠離市中心的陳囂，這裡真是令人流連的好所在。

Away from the hustle and bustle of the city centre, this is a perfect place for a quiet break. 

阿爾法瑪區 / Alfama 

本區是里斯本最有代表性的地方，典型的風景是狹窄的中古街道、迷你廣場和教堂，粉刷成白色的小房子以磁磚裝飾，還有鐵鑄的陽台。

This is the most emblematic quarter in Lisbon. It's made up of narrow streets, small squares and churches, and whitewashed houses decorated with tile panels and wrought-iron balconies. 

我們剛好在聖安東尼慶典去到里斯本（每年六月十二到十四日），聖安東尼被認為是了不起的奇蹟聖人，因為他的事蹟之一就是在義大利的利米尼和魚交談，所以這個節日的重點之一包括吃沙丁魚。

We happened to be in Lisbon around St. Anthony's Festival (June 12-14). St. Anthony is viewed as a mass miracle worker. One of his most remarkable achievements is conversing with the fish by the Italian town of Rimini. Thus one of the highlights of this festival is eating sardines. 

最佳的慶祝區在阿爾法瑪，街上廣場到處都是賣啤酒和沙丁魚的攤販，傍晚之後人潮紛紛湧出來。

The best place to be for the festival is Alfama. There are food stalls selling beer and sardines. It is especially crowded after the evening. 

好玩的是，我當初訂機票時根本不知有這個節日，而那天傍晚剛好在阿爾法瑪也是因為我們一路從磁磚博物館走回市區，便目睹了社區裡的熱鬧氣氛。我的旅行裡總是有好多巧合。

The funny thing is, I wasn't aware of the festival at all when I booked the plane tickets. We happened to be in Alfama that evening simply because we walked all the way from the Tile Museum back to downtown. That was why we became part of the celebration. Well, there are always so many unexplainable coincidences on my trips. 

市集裡到處販售紙折成的花朵，附上像是詩句的文字。男子可以把花送給心儀的女生向她告白。

Paper flowers with a stanza of poetry are sold everywhere on squares. Men can give a pot to ladies they feel for and confess their love to them. 

街上派對和遊行都是慶典的一部份。

Street parties and parades are important in the celebration. 

自由大道上坐滿了等待的人潮。

Avenida de Liberdade was packed with crowds that awaited the start of the parade. 

今年聖安東尼遊行邁入第八十個年頭，每年來自里斯本各區的遊行隊伍展現城市不同區域的樣貌。今年為了慶祝巴西和葡萄牙的友好關係，也特別邀請來自巴西的表演隊伍。

In 2012, the typical Marchas Populares de Lisboa celebrate its 80th anniversary. The parade, one of Lisbon's icons, gathers the groups of the most representative neighborhoods in the city. This year a Brazilian group was invited to join the parade for the celebration of the Year of Brazil/Portugal Relations.