Glasgow / 格拉斯哥

從愛丁堡前往格拉斯哥時，巧遇印度人阿尼，他說格拉斯哥的樣貌和愛丁堡很不一樣，因為前者在歷史上的發展是以工業為重心，當時聽了實在沒什麼期待。

On our way from Edinburgh to Glasgow, we encountered Anil on the bus to the  train station. He said Glasgow looks quite different from Edinburgh. The former used to be a centre of industrialization in history. Upon hearing that, I didn't have any romantic expectation of the city. 

這一集我決定先從民宿開始介紹，如幾個月前遇到的導遊說的，很多老闆拿四十年拍的照片放在網路上吸引客人，所以在網上看的和親眼看到的的確有出入。我對阿瑪迪斯沒有很美好的想像，不過一進入房子之後，立刻很驚豔。

In this episode, I decide to start by introducing the B and B Amadeus. Like a tour guide (whom we ran into a few months earlier) suggested, many B and B owners put old photos taken 40 years ago online to attract customers, so there is indeed a contrast between the images and the reality. I didn't ask for much based on what I saw on the website of Amadeus. However, I was immediately impressed after entering the house. 

格拉斯哥的秘密從門口就開始了，讀者們要注意看。

The secret of Glasgow begins right from the door. Everyone, pay great attention. 

我們的房間窗外有迷人的風景，我忍不住畫了張速寫。在這個房間裡我們開心地看了很受歡迎的「英國之聲」和休葛蘭的「新娘百分百」，這時才有種對英國文化還有好多要體驗的部份啊！

We had a remarkable room with a view. I couldn't help drawing a quick sketch of the garden outside. We had a good time watching the finale of The Voice UK and reviewing Hugh Grant's Notting Hill. It was at that moment that I realized that I would never learn enough about British culture! 

我非常喜歡畢卡索這幾張作品！

I am totally swept off my feet by these drawings of Picasso! 

娜娜在晴朗的早晨彈烏克麗麗。

Nana played the ukulele on a sunny morning. 

雖然民宿讓人流連忘返，還是得出門去逛逛。

Though Amadeus was a really brilliant place, we still had to take a look at the city. 

市中心的鬧區有不少好看的街頭表演者。

In the city centre, there were many gorgeous-looking street performers. 

格拉斯哥的建築初看之下髒髒舊舊，看久了又不覺得有那麼簡單，我想到布達佩斯的裝飾主義，因為其實仔細看，建築表面都有細部的雕刻。

The buildings in Glasgow appear to be quite washed-out at first sight, but after having seen a lot of them, I didn't think they were so simple. In fact, they reminded me of those in Budapest, which are typical of the secession art style. There are many ornate details on the facades. 

我們在起伏的街道上上下下。

We strolled on the streets that roll up and down. 

晃進了格拉斯哥藝術學校的咖啡店。

We strolled into the cafe of Glasgow School of Art. 

找到校本區之前還遇見了一位雕刻系的學生，和阿姨小聊了一下她的裝置作品。

Before finding the art school building, we came across a student majoring in sculpture.  We had a pleasant chat with the auntie about her installation work. 

格拉斯哥藝術學校的主建築是由查爾斯雷尼麥金塔設計，他是格拉斯哥享有盛名的建築師，在當地有好幾件具有代表性的作品。

The main building of Glasgow School of Art was designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh. He plays a key role in the art and architecture history of Glasgow. Certain well-known designs were attributed to him. 

麥金塔參與了英國的藝術和工藝運動和新藝術的發展。格拉斯哥為工程和造船重鎮，工業革命之後，人們對於大量生產的生活用品需求大增，麥金塔和其他設計師受到日本藝術影響，尤其是在傢俱設計方面，走簡約路線，取材於大自然，但作品又不失優雅。

Mackintosh was a designer in the Arts and Crafts Movement and Art Nouveau in the UK. Glasgow was an important production centre of heavy engineering and shipbuilding. After the industrialization revolution, the demand for mass-produced items rose. Mackintosh and other designers were influenced by Japanese culture. In the design of furniture, they preferred restraint and economy of means, simple forms and natural materials, and the use of texture, light and shadow. 

傍晚去格拉斯哥植物園散步，陽光看起來很閃亮，其實天氣很冷，我們在草地上野餐不到十分鐘便決定離開。

We went for a walk in the Glasgow botanic garden. Though the sunshine looked dazzling, it was actually quite chilly. We didn't picnic for 10 minutes before deciding to get up and go. 

西城有些小巷，都是餐聽和酒吧，晚上的人潮不斷。格拉斯哥人有自己的腔，也有很多當地的用字，只可惜我們不能久留。

There are some lanes in West End lined with restaurants and bars frequented by people in the evening. People in Glasgow speak with their own accent. They also have their own slangs. It was a pity that we didn't stay long in the city. 

格拉斯哥離愛丁堡約一個小時火車程，但愛丁堡蒼勁豪放，而格拉斯哥秀氣些。

Glasgow is about one hour away from Edinburgh by train. In comparison, the latter is grand and unconstrained while Glasgow is refined in certain ways. 

格拉斯哥大學也在西城。

University of Glasgow is also in West End. 

我們在校園裡的小角落裡探險。

We explored in the corners of the campus. 

大學有一座杭特博物館，收有歷史生物方面的珍品，其實樓梯的雕花設計也很有新藝術風格。

There is a museum in the university called Hunterian Museum with a collection of historical and biological artefacts. If you look closely, you'll notice that the design of the balustrade is quite Art Nouveau. 

離大學不遠處的凱文格洛夫美術館兼博物館，則有格拉斯哥藝術家的經典作品和其他方面的收藏。

Not far away from the university is Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum housing a collection of the classic works of artists from Glasgow and other treasures. 

The Highlands / 蘇格蘭高原

住在倫敦最想念的就是高山，雖然去了好些英格蘭的小城，看到的多半是緩坡丘陵，像溫吞吞的英國人，表面上沒有太多起伏。

What I missed the most when living in London was mountains. Though I visited several English towns and cities, I saw mostly rolling hills. The mild slopes are so representative of the Brits. You can't tell what kind of ups and downs they have gone through from the surface.

這次旅行的導遊是個開朗的胖司機維克特，從一上車就滔滔不絕，整整說了十個小時的話，他把能和大家分享的，上至蘇格蘭地理歷史，下至他的人生觀，都一一道盡。

We were accompanied by a very outgoing round tour guide Victor. He hardly ceased talking after we got on the coach bus. I believed he shared whatever he knew with us, including the history and geography of Scotland and also his personal perspectives on life and social events. 

和他搭檔的是個看起來很有個性的司機艾力克斯，右臂上有彩色的刺青。兩個人在旅途中一搭一唱的，真的很有趣。

Victor was paired with a very cool driver Alex, who has a colorful tattoo on his right arm. On the trip, they two really did a good job entertaining the tourists.

遊覽車上路沒多久，我們就駛進了這般湖光山色。

No sooner had we got on the road than we feasted our eyes on such beautiful scenery.

這個團很有人性，第一個行程就是帶大家到小鎮吃早餐。

The person that designed this tour is certainly very understanding because the first itinerary was having breakfast in Kilmahog.

雖然我們在女王登基週末之際無法在倫敦和群眾同歡，但在鄉下我們也感受到慶祝的熱潮。

Though we didn't stay in London to celebrate the Queen's diamond jubilee during that weekend, we felt the heat in the faraway countryside as well.

我查了當天的行程，在搜尋地名之後，也企圖把自己拍的照片和網路上顯示的圖片對照，不過好多山和湖都長得很像，不如大家就簡單地欣賞蘇格蘭高原的風光吧！

I looked up the itineraries of that day. After Googling the names of the destinations, I tried to match my photos with those I found online. Well, the problem is that the mountains and lakes are so alike that I can't tell them apart. So why don't we just enjoy the lovely highland photos? 

很羨慕那些在高原上健行的人群，我們的一日遊簡直就是沾醬油啊！

I envied those who got time and energy to hike on the highlands. Our one-day-trip didn't suffice for us to experience the highland life! 

旅行的重點是厄奎特城堡，座落於尼斯湖旁，是中古世紀蘇格蘭最大的城堡，據說尼斯湖水怪就是出現在這附近。

The highlight of the day trip was Urquhart Castle, which sits next to Loch Ness. It was    one of the largest strongholds of medieval Scotland. Nessie is said to have been sighted around here. 

既然無緣看到水怪，就自己畫一隻好了。

Since we didn't have the luck to encounter Nessie, I might as well draw one myself. 

在晴朗的日子裡，就連廢墟般的遺址也顯得美麗。

On a sunny day, even the ruins appear to be awesome. 

尼斯湖是蘇格蘭第二大淡水湖，延伸約三十七公里，以尼斯湖水怪聞名。

Loch Ness is the second largest freshwater loch in Scotland, extending for about 37 km. It is known for Nessie. 

看完了美景，踏上回家之途，想不到公路因為前一天凌晨發生車禍，到隔天都處於封路狀態。維克特不斷強調是有另一條路，但要花上五個小時，所以與其花那麼多時間，不如賭一下，也許很快道路就會紓通。

After a wonderful trip, we headed home to Edinburgh. But the carriageway was closed because of a car accident the day before. Victor kept reiterating that there is another route, but it would take five hours. Instead of opting for that choice, Victor and Alex decided to wait, and maybe soon the road would be opened again. 

這時車上的旅客開始自由活動，我畫著窗外的風景，好些人下了車，無視艾力克斯的抗議，到對面的草原散步。

At this time the tourists on the coach bus killed time in all sorts of ways. I was sketching the scenery outside the windows. Some got off the bus and took a stroll on the grassland across from the road disregarding Alex's protests. 

我還順便幫印度遊客阿尼畫肖像。有些人之間熱絡了起來，兩個小時其實足以點起愛的火苗，要是我們再等下去，我都可以寫小說了。

I even drew a quick portrait of an Indian tourist Anil. It was obvious that some people found much to talk about. In fact, two hours are long enough to start a love affair. If we had waited longer, I could have written a novel...

最後維克特和艾力克斯為了把車上一名旅客準時送達愛丁堡巴士站，可說是卯足了勁，我不認識其它蘇格蘭人，但比起英格蘭人，他們倆非常有幹勁！

In the end, to send a young man to Edinburgh bus station, Victor and Alex did their utmost. Well, I don't know other Scots, but compared with English people, they two are quite upbeat and responsible! 

Edinburgh / 愛丁堡

五月底在倫敦享受了一週的夏日天氣，多少也希望這樣的好日子在愛丁堡的旅行也能持續，不過因為太多人警告我，蘇格蘭的陰雨是常態，我自然也沒過份的要求。在皇家哩大道上行走時，突然下去大雨，我們就躲進繽紛的紀念品店，欣賞美麗的蘇格蘭圍巾。

Since we were blessed with a week's summery weather in late May, I, more or less, prayed for the same lovely days when I traveled in Edinburgh. However, too many people had warned me beforehand about the gloomy weather in Scotland. I knew better than to be too demanding. While we walked along the Royal Mile, it started to pour. We thus hopped into colorful souvenir shops to feast our eyes on the beautiful Scottish scarves.

雖然已經是春末夏初，愛丁堡仍舊寒涼，連當地人看起來也很需要熱熱的咖啡取暖。

Though it was already the end of spring, or the beginning of summer, it was quite chilly in Edinburgh. Even the locals were in need of turning to steaming coffee for some warmth. 

愛丁堡的建築不是淺褐色就是深灰色，房子比英格蘭大許多，風格也相當整齊，很有高原的大器。上圖背景是聖賈爾斯大教堂，雖然外牆灰濛濛的，教堂裡又是另一種風景，在下雨天裡給人很溫馨的感覺。

The facades of buildings in Edinburgh are either light ochre or dark gray. In terms of size, they are more spacious than their counterparts in England. The architectural styles are quite consistent, reminding me of the wild highland life. In the background of the photo above is St. Giles Church. Though it appears to be kind of dark on the outside, the inside is pretty heart-and-body-warming on a rainy day.

在倫敦住了九個多月，發現英國有自己的一套路名系統，去愛丁堡又學到「close」指的是從街上通到房屋中庭或樓梯的狹窄通道。

Having lived in London for more than nine months, I discovered that Britons have their set of words referring to different kinds of roads or space. In Edinburgh, we learned that "close" refers to a narrow passage that leads from a street to a court and houses within or to the common stairway of tenements.

愛丁堡的韋佛利車站在橋下，從上往下看像是一群白帳蓬形成的組合屋。

Waverley Station lies one level lower than the main bridge. Looked at from the bridge, it seems like a huge building made up of numerous white tents. 

雖然愛丁堡已是發展完備的城市，但就像倫敦，仍有進行中的基礎建設，例如著名的購物街王子街上正在建一條纜車線。回到倫敦讀了衛報才知道蘇格蘭在2014年要獨立公投。

Though Edinburgh is a well-developed  city, like London, there is infrastructure work going on. For example, a tram line is being constructed on the famous shopping street Princes Street. Also, when I read the Guardian after going back to London, I l realized that a referendum will be carried out on the Scottish independence in the autumn of 2014. 

所以說，就算是說同一種語言，甚至享有相同的歷史背景，仍然會有不同的民族情節啊！

I come to a conclusion that it makes sense for people who speak the same language and share the same historical background to identify with different governments. 

蘇格蘭也有自己發行的鈔票喔！

Scotland's tenners are of a different look! 

其實我們只花了一天在愛丁堡旅行，能看的景點有限，但還好我們去了愛丁堡城堡，這是了解蘇格蘭歷史的好所在。

In fact, we spent no more than one day traveling in Edinburgh, so naturally we could see only a very small number of places. Fortunately we went to the Edinburgh Castle, which is a very good start to learn about the history of Scotland. 

城堡建於火山石上，最高處約一百三十公尺。

The castle stands upon an extinct volcano. The summit of the Castle Rock is 130 metres above sea level. 

我閱讀了一整天的城堡歷史，但因為我不是這方面的專家，再加上我很明白過度資訊的提供只會讓人頭腦爆炸，我決定只用幾句帶過。蘇格蘭一直有自己的王朝和文化，君主也不斷擴建城堡，最重要的國王之一是蘇格蘭的詹姆斯六世，他繼承了沒有子嗣的依莉沙白女王，成為英格蘭和愛爾蘭的詹姆斯一世，此時英格蘭和蘇格蘭還是各自獨立的政治個體，但表面上由詹姆斯一世領導。值得注意的是，在王權統併之後，詹姆斯一世從1603年後就留在英格蘭，駕崩之前只回過蘇格蘭一次，也自稱為英格蘭和愛爾蘭之王，根據我的歷史直覺，我想這和之後蘇格蘭被併入英國有很大的影響。

I read the history of the castle for a whole day. However, I have to admit that I am no expert in this field, and I am so aware that providing too much information will only give the reader a headache, I decide to summarize the history from my own perspective. In a few words, Scotland had its own dynasties and kings who expanded the castle in different eras. One of the most important kings is James VI, King of Scots from 1567. He succeeded Queen Elizabeth, who didn't have any issue and became King of England and Ireland as James I from the union of the English and Scottish crown in 1603. 

England and Scotland were individual sovereign states, each with their own political systems. It is worth noticing that after the Union of the Crowns, James based himself in England and returned only once to Scotland. He called himself "King of Great Britain and Ireland. My history sense tells me that this has much to do with the fact that Scotland became part of Great Britain later. 

這棟皇宮就是為了詹姆斯六世回到愛丁堡歡慶登基蘇格蘭王位五十年而重新整修的。

The Royal Palace was greatly renovated for James VI's visit to his birthplace for his 50th anniversary as King of Scots. 

在1707年英格蘭和蘇格蘭議會通過了合併法案，並且把國家名稱訂為大不列巔。

Finally, in 1707, the parliaments of England and Scotland passed the Acts of Union and named the united kingdom "Great Britain." 

如同其它的英國王室城堡，總是有囚禁犯人之處，愛丁堡城堡也不例外。在十八到十九世紀之間，英國歷經許多戰爭如七年戰爭、美國獨立戰爭和法國大革命的戰爭，許多囚犯被關在這裡。

Like other English castles, there were always towers reserved as prisons. The Edinburgh Castle is no exception. Between 1715 and 1814, Great Britain underwent several wars such as the Seven Years War, the War of American Independence and the French Revolutionary Wars. Thousands of prisoners were held in the castle. 

這是第一次世界大戰中殉職士兵和軍官的芳名錄。

This is a record of the soldiers that died in the First World War. 

在城堡裡聽見一些遊客和工作人員仔細地討論蘇格蘭和英格蘭的歷史，我對於他們的精神很欽佩，因為這些知識對他們來說不只是課本上的東西，而是生活的一部份，所以我更覺得自己應該把最後一趟旅行好好整理。常被問到英國和美國的生活有何不同，我的感覺是在英國生活，歷史是很重要的一環，畢竟這是英國目前很寶貴的資產。

In the castle, I heard some tourists and staff talk about the history of Scotland and England. I really admire them for their desire to learn and share. It feels like the knowledge is more than facts listed in textbooks. It is rather part of their life. That's why I think I should go through my photos taken on the last trips before leaving the UK. I was often asked the differences between living in the US and the UK. After having lived in both countries, I have the impression that history is a very valuable asset for Brits. 

學習完了之後當然要吃點東西，不如就來試試蘇格蘭鼎鼎有名的羊肉雜碎布丁，把羊的內臟包括心、肝和肺打碎配上洋蔥、燕麥、動物脂肪油和香料及湯底，吃起來味道還可以，不過這也是造成我目前身材肥大的主兇之一。

After a long lesson, we deserved some good food. I couldn't wait to try the renowned haggis, which is a kind of savoury pudding containing sheep's heart, liver and lungs, minced with onion, oatmeal, suet, spices and salt, mixed with stock. I found the taste to be quite mild, but reading the ingredients, you can tell that it was one of the major reasons for my current "roundness." 

吃完之後去蘇格蘭博物館逛一逛，裡面無奇不有，不過最令人印象深刻的是蘇格蘭人相當以其文化為傲！

After lunch, we went for a stroll in the National Museum of Scotland. We literally found everything in there, but I was especially impressed by the Scots' pride in their own culture! 

Harry Potter / 哈利波特

我不是哈利波特迷，頂多只看過第一集電影的片段，雖然當下被故事情節吸引，也耳聞目睹哈波潮，就是沒有好好閱讀一整個系列的興致。不過托娜娜的福，在離開英國之前去到了位於倫敦近郊的哈利波特影城來個快速入門課程。

I am not a Harry Potter fan. To be honest, I saw only fragments of the first episode when it was aired on TV. I was entranced by the story at that moment. I was not unaware how the series took the world by storm. However, I never pulled myself together to read the novels. Well, thanks to Nana, I had the chance to visit the studio in Watford before leaving the UK to gain a quick understanding of the stories and the films.

我在最後幾個星期的旅行沒有太大的野心，只希望能夠對英國文化有多一點的了解，剛好哈利波特又是相當具有代表性的英國作品，看到一個作者的想像力如何被轉換成影像，其實我是很感動的。

During my last trips, I wasn't too ambitious. I wanted nothing but to learn more about British culture, in which Harry Potter plays a rather important part. Seeing how an author's sheer imagination transformed into images, I was quite touched.

這是影城裡的食堂，兩週之後我們又去了牛津大學真正的取景地，還真是完整的旅行啊！

This is the Great Hall in the studio. In fact, two weeks later, we went to the dining hall in Christ Church College in Oxford University where the film crew took shots. What a comprehensive trip! 

這是冬季舞會的冰宮場景，取材於布萊頓宮，剛好我冬天也去過了。

This is the set for the Yule Ball, the inspiration of which derived from Brighton Pavilion. I happen to have been there in winter. 

道具設計師原本將火燄之杯設計為金屬材質，鑲上珠寶，但最後改用木頭，走自然路線，最後的成品是手工雕刻，高五尺之多。

The production designer Stuart Craig originally imagined Goblet of Fire as a small metal cup decorated with jewels. But in the end, he went for wood, and the goblet took on an organic look. The final work was hand-carved out of a trunk of English elm, measuring more than five feet tall. 

在拍攝長達十年的過程中，劇組人員培養出深厚的感情。霍格華滋學院的牆上掛著三百五十幅巫士的肖像，其實都取材於工作人員，也是為了對他們致上最高敬意。

During the ten years when all the films were made, the crew developed deep affection. On the walls of the Hogwarts hang 350 portraits of wizards and witches. They are actually hand-drawn portraits of the crew. This is also a tribute to them and their hard work. 

雖然在原作中沒有此發明，但導演阿方索古亞龍設計了經典的霍格華茲橋，讓哈利和妙麗的時空旅程更加真實，不過這只是部份橋身，最主要的是用電腦修改的後製過程。

Though there is no such invention in the original novel or script, the director Alfonso Cuaron designed the Hogwarts Bridge to make Harry's and Hermione's Time-Turner experience more exciting. Only part of the bridge was built, and Visual Effects team used computer-generated effects to create the remaining sections.  

哈波電影系列中也有很多奇幻的角色，這時化妝部的工作人員益顯重要。我尤其喜歡最上排的植物精靈，去了影城之後我把它畫在速寫本上，在湖區的車站問路時，車掌先生看得目不轉睛。

In the Harry Potter movie series, there are numerous amazing characters. To visually present them, the makeup artists and their techniques were especially crucial. I was particularly interested in the plant genies on the uppermost row. Later I drew the image in my sketchbook. When I asked for directions in the Lake District, the conductor couldn't take his eyes off the picture. 

儘管我對大賣座的電影或書本會本能性地卻步，我仍然相信它們背後一定有成功的原因，哈利波特就是個很好的例子！

Despite my instinctive rebellion against mega-blockbusters, I do believe that they don't succeed for nothing. And Harry Potter is definitely one of the best examples!