Sunday, August 09, 2015

Norwegian woods / 挪威的森林


在北歐的日子裡,我每天早起,於是有些屬於自己的空檔,可以到處去探險。在里耳哈默的早晨,從Radisson Blu旅館往旁邊走,居然有座森林,我們在旅程中經過無數個森林,從來沒有機會下車去散步,今天真是我的日子啊!

I am in the habit of getting up earlier than the others during the trip, and that gives me two to three hours of free time every day. Thus, I set off on my own adventures to places that are not included in the itineraries. In the morning in Lillehammer, I accidentally walk into a forest adjacent to Radisson Blu Hotel. We have driven past by numerous woods on our trip, but we are always in a hurry to visit a certain renowned tourist spot. Today is really my day in that I'm blessed with such good luck to actually "walk" in Norwegian woods! 



        對於溫帶植物我一無所知,不過光欣賞他們的外型也是樂事。

     I know nothing about plants in the temperate zone. However, that doesn't blind me from their beauty. 





        森林裡沒有人跡,只有鳥聲和溪流聲,我邊走邊哼著歌,克制不了自己,只想不停地往前走。

     I do not encounter any other fellow walker, but I am not alone. Instead, I am accompanied by birds' chirping and rivers' burbling. Oh, and my own humming sounds. The walk is so pleasant that I can't help but stroll forward. 











        森林裡有很多秘密,不過只要肯用眼睛看,他們很樂意和大家分享。要離開挪威的最後一天,找到了現在挪威書店必備的暢銷書:挪威社交指南,裡面寫了關於挪威人個性的幾個重點,挪威人不多話,也不喜歡打擾人,他們的體貼是表面看起來有點冷漠,但實際上很貼心,同時世界上善意指數最高的地區也落在挪威,我在森林裡看到挪威人的樣子,低調但極度友善。

     There are many secrets in the woods, but as long as I pay attention, they are so willing to be looked at. On my last day in Norway, I find a book featured in every major bookstore now: The Social Guidebook to Norway by Julien S. Bourrelle. He shares what he has learned about Norwegians. "Do not be surprised if your colleagues leave without saying goodbye in the afternoon. They do not intend to be rude. They are in fact very polite, Norwegian polite. You leave space both physically and psychologically." I've also learned in a recent survey that people in Trondheim, Norway, scored the highest in terms of good will index. In the woods I find much resemblance between plants and Norwegians. 



        這是誰的家呢?

     Whose house is it? 



        此時我不禁想到弗洛斯特的詩:兩條路在樹林裡分歧,我選了較少人走過的那一條,於是人生因此不同。

     Faced with the two paths, I think of Frost's poem: 
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I--
I took the one less traveled by, 
And that has made all the difference." 





        沿途的風景多樣,經過開闊的草原,也經過潺潺小溪。

     Along the way, there are various sorts of scenery, including the meadow and gushing streams. 



        原來這是有規劃的慢跑步道!每天能在樹林裡跑步一定很幸福!

     So this turns out to be a jogging path. How lovely it must be to jog in Norwegian woods! 

Saturday, August 08, 2015

Golden Route / 黃金之路


搭渡輪遊蓋倫格峽灣後,我們立刻踏上沿著北大西洋海岸線的63號公路,行經曲折蜿蜒的山區景觀公路「老鷹公路」及每年五到九月才開放的「精靈公路」,兩者合稱「黃金之路」,前往里耳哈默。

After our ferry ride across Geirangerfjord, we immediately hit the Norwegian County Road 63, driving on the winding mountain roads--the Ørnevegen (the Eagle Road) and Trollstigen, the latter open only from May to September. The two together are known as the Golden Route. 



        這條公路不僅工程艱鉅,因為要鑿山壁,開起來也挑戰司機的技術,路上有11個大迴轉髮夾彎道,道路又狹窄,開完一程三個半小時,司機和乘客都身心疲累。

     Constructing these roads required outstanding road engineering and building skills, but what's even more amazing is that they were built with the simple tools available back in the 1930s. Also, driving is a tremendous challenge for drivers for there are eleven hairpin bends on each road. After a 3.5-hour drive from Geiranger to Lillehammer, not only drivers but also passengers are physically and mentally exhausted. 



        自然的景色太迷人,在北歐到處都看得到愛之鎖,我倒是想把看到的風景鎖在腦海裡。

     It's fun to see locks of love everywhere in North Europe. I bet it's because natural scenery is so fascinating that people want to leave marks with their loved ones. I do have the strong desire to engrave everything I see in my head. 



        說起來很欠扁,但是拍照一整天到最後真是有點厭世,可是當車子行駛到至高點,看到窗外山上覆蓋冰雪的景色,不禁又把相機取出。

     I might sound ungrateful in saying that I always end up feeling sick and tired of taking photos at the end of the day. However, when we reach the highest point, I can't help snapping photos upon seeing the magnificent views of mountains covered with thick layers of frozen snow. 





        這輩子我一定要再回去挪威!

     I've made up my mind to go back to Norway in my lifetime! 

Thursday, August 06, 2015

Plants in Briksdal / 布利克斯達的植物們










山上的氣溫不高,但是花兒還是認真地綻放。

It's rather chilling in the mountains, but flowers are in full bloom. 



        挪威到處都是屋頂長滿小草的屋子,其實植栽是為了隔絕冷空氣。

     Wooden cabins in Norway are topped with vegetation, which is meant to stop the cold air from going in. 



        和一片新鮮的葉子相遇。

     I have a romantic encounter with a fresh leaf. 

Monday, August 03, 2015

Briksdal / 布利克斯達


挪威的布利克斯達冰川屬於喬斯特達爾冰川國家公園的一部分,是歐洲大陸最大的冰川,總面積約487平方公里。從山腳下入口可步行上山或搭乘冰河區電動車,沿路有各種花草可觀賞。

Briksdalen, Norway, is the best known and most accessible arm of Jostedalsbreen National Park, which is the largest glacier in Europe with a total area of 487 square kilometers. One can see the Briksdalen by foot or catch a ride with the "Troll Cars" up to the glaciers, and we feast our eyes on the fantastic scenery and flora along the way. 





        布利克斯達冰川高346公尺,但年年持續退後。儘管如此,我們見到藍色的巨大冰川還是歎為觀止。

     Briksdal Glacier lies 346 meters above sea level, but it is constantly receding. However, we are still awed in the presence of the gigantic glacier. 



        河裡的冰塊摸起來無敵沁涼。

     The ice in the lake feels super chilling. 



        不知道以後孩子們還摸得到冰川流下來的冰塊嗎?

     I wonder if kids in the future will get to touch any ice from the glacier? 



        今年夏天因為衝動決定來北歐,就這麼圓了人生的一個大夢!

     This trip resulted merely from my impulse, but it's really a big dream come true for the three of us!

Sunday, August 02, 2015

Dream-like trip / 夢一般的旅行


想去北歐旅行好多年了,好不容易今年夏天內心有一股強烈的反動力,讓我想要去一趟長途旅行,於是夢就這麼成真。雖然跟團的行程不允許我完成太多速寫,不過我還是抓到一些空檔,在速寫本裡留下記錄。

I'd been dreaming of traveling to North Europe for years, but I was daunted by the cost. This summer I felt the need to do something big, and thanks to it, I made it to my dreamland. The choice of traveling with a tour group didn't allow me to sketch wherever I went; however, we were given some freedom every day, which made it possible for me to leave some records in my sketchbook. 

        搭遊輪欣賞挪威第一大峽灣松恩峽灣時,大家紛紛擠到最上層的甲板上拍照,我則留在溫暖的第二層,隨著眼前風景不斷變換,把看到的景色組合起來。

     When taking a ferry across Sognefjord, the most spectacular and renowned fjord in Norway, everyone fought for a place on the upper deck to snap away. Longing for the indoor warmth, I stayed on the second deck to sketch whatever I saw as various landscape appeared in front of my eyes. 



        遊輪停在巴利斯川德之後,我們入住岸邊的古典飯店Kviknes Hotel,沿著岸邊是一間間設計典雅的社交大廳,我的團員們忙著用手機上網,而西方人則看書、喝紅酒聊天,能偷一小時觀察後者的悠閒,對我來說是珍貴的喘息機會。出發前我的身心過度運轉,所以在旅行中放慢無疑是種紓解。

     We were blessed with the opportunity to spend a night in the classical hotel Kviknes after we got onshore at Balestrand. The best thing about the hotel is a row of differently-designed lobbies facing the water and the mountains afar. My travel mates were busy swiping their smartphones while our Caucasian counterparts concentrated on reading or chatting over a glass of red wine. I did not dislike my  fellow travelers, but I was relieved to blend in with Westerners as I stole one hour to sketch them. 

     Before I left, I over-functioned mentally and physically, so it was a heaven-sent gift for me to slow down my pace and do nothing. 



        清晨是我每天最開心的時刻,一早起來用我的方式去探索北歐,呼吸新鮮清涼的空氣。巴利斯川德的週日早晨寧靜遼闊,雖然我只有半小時,圖也畫得歪歪扭扭,但是一看到這張速寫,我馬上想起當下的感覺。

     The early morning was my favorite part of the day every day because I was able to explore North Europe in my own way. When I went out for a walk near the shore, I was all alone, surrounded by fresh air and vast quiet. I had only half an hour when doing this sketch. I was in a hurry, and I know it was a mess, but the image reminds me of the wonderful moment. 





        今天要整理照片的當兒,才發現某些照片被記憶卡吃掉了,我剩下的不多,卻也很多。這是在卑爾根港的山上俯瞰海岸的景色。

     Today when I was about to go over the photos, I found that those of the first two days aren't there anymore. I do not feel especially heart-broken though. After all, I still have a lot, including the memories. This is a postcard on which I drew the view of Bergen harbor. 



        再度搭遊輪遊覽挪威第二峽灣蓋倫格峽灣,它走秀麗路線,前一天在松恩峽灣沒出現的海鷗紛紛現身,窗外整片都是飛翔的白海鷗。我速寫眼前的韓國旅客,看他們聊得很入神,不過導遊安迪擔心我們錯過甲板上可見的風景,不禁提醒我們山壁上的瀑布是不能錯過的景點,於是在看了一眼之後,我就把七姊妹瀑布放進速寫。

     Besides Sognefjord, Geirangerfjord is also famous though it's not as grand as the former. However, the seagulls we had been looking forward to seeing the previous day miraculously appeared. In fact, they came in flocks. I focused on observing the Korean tourists sitting in front of me, who seemed to have a good time conversing. However, our tour guide Andy was so worried that we would miss the landscape that he came to remind each of us not to skip the waterfalls. Thus, I decided to put the Seven Sisters Waterfall in my sketch after taking a look. 



        在里耳哈默的早晨,去旅館旁邊的森林散步,回到飯店吃早餐,突然收音機傳來Ed Sheeran的Think out Loud,這是阿嬤過世那一天我一直聽的歌,所以忍不住想阿嬤也跟我來北歐旅行了吧,於是我留了個驚喜給下一位客人。

     In the morning in Lillehammer, after taking a walk in the woods, I returned to the hotel for breakfast. Then Ed Sheeran's Think out Loud found its way into my ears from one far corner of the restaurant. That is the song I was listening to repeatedly on the day my granny passed way. I couldn't help doodling on a napkin and left it as a surprise for the next guest. 

        把現學的挪威語「謝謝」說給高大紅頭髮的男侍者聽,他害羞地微笑一下,立刻用挪威語回我不客氣。

     I thanked the tall waiter with red hair in Norwegian. His mouth broke into a shy smile while he replied, "Bare hyggelig," meaning "You're welcome." in Norwegian. 



        挪威山間的小路不好開,有一天希臘司機Kostas不斷得倒車、讓車,他也不時地得一個人開著車追逐搭遊輪的我們,說再見的那一天畫了一張卡片送給他,他說:You are so sweet! 

     It's a challenge to drive on the winding mountain roads in Norway. Sometimes coach bus drivers are confronted with other gigantic buses, so their skills are constantly tested. Our Greek driver also had to drive all by himself as we traveled by train or ferry. On the day we said goodbye, I gave him a hand-drawn card. He was so touched that he said to me, "You are so sweet!" 



        從鄉間回到大城市奧斯陸,有種失落的感覺。早晨的奧斯陸吹著冷冷的風,一下子我找不到可以畫的景色,八點之前沒有什麼人潮,基本的角色是跑者、腳踏車騎士、穿西裝拎著傘的上班族和海鷗、鴿子。

     I felt lost when returning to Oslo. Compared with nature, there are mostly buildings and more buildings. On the windy morning, I was at a loss about what to sketch. Before eight o'clock, there weren't many people near the harbor. Basically, I saw runners, bicycle-riders, office workers in suits with an umbrella, and seagulls/pigeons. 



        離開奧斯陸前的中餐在高級的格藍飯店吃色彩繽紛的三明治,每一份都是紅配綠,不是燻鮭魚或蝦配生菜,就是紅紅的肉配綠蔬菜,視覺效果百分百,但在下著雨的城市裡,顯得有些冰涼。

     We had our last lunch in Grand Hotel before leaving Oslo. It was a sandwich feast. Every sandwich is a combination of red/vermilion and green, a piece of toast with either salmon or shrimp or meat piled high together with veggies. The food was visually stimulating, but on a rainy day, it felt cold. 







        很久沒有在機場裡放肆速寫,而那一天出現在我眼前的乘客每位都有自己的時尚品味,自成一片風景。畫完之後,身旁的女士在我起身時給我會意的微笑,好低調的善意!

     I hadn't sketched to my heart's content in airports for long. Yet, the passengers I encountered that day all possessed idiosyncratic fashion tastes. After I was done, the lady sitting next to me gave me a knowing smile, which is the low-key friendliness typical of North Europeans. 



        從奧斯陸到南方的哥本哈根,都市景色變換成有工業感的陽光城市,住的旅館房間有落地窗,早晨和傍晚不斷有跑者和腳踏車騎士從窗前閃過。

     Arriving in Copenhagen, we were impressed by the industrial feel of the city, apart from the sunshine. The French window of our hotel room framed joggers and bicycle-riders on the move. 

        之後幾天的旅行在各國首都裡穿梭,面對高高低低的建築和人群,我卻不知道要畫什麼了。

     During the second part of our journey, we flew from one city to another. Facing the cityscape and crowds, I no longer knew what I could draw. 


        旅行回來一個星期了,腦中很多記憶還是停留在北歐的旅行,有時候我努力地抓住回憶,有時候則是北歐情境的再創造。週末去植標館上工,順便帶了一包在波羅的海遊輪上買的HARIBO軟糖給孩子們當獎品,活動要收尾的時候,我們全部都沉浸在吃軟糖的新奇感裡,孩子們也是,媽媽們也是,當下我感覺北歐的旅行又復活了。

     It has been a week since I returned. There are still many vivid memories in my head, some of which I make an effort to cling to while sometimes the moments just recreate themselves in my daily lives. I took with me a bag of HARIBO bought on the cruise sailing across the Baltic Sea as the prize for the kids to the herbarium this past Saturday. At the end of the workshop, all of us, children, mothers and staff, got carried away by the excitement of eating gummy bears. At that instant, I couldn't feel more North European ...

Tuesday, July 14, 2015

Sukhothai / 素可泰


去素可泰旅行是五個月之前的事了,這陣子腦中突然浮現當時的畫面。

In the blink of an eye, it is already five months ago since we traveled to Sukhothai. Lately the memories have flashed into my mind. 



        在熱帶國家溫暖的二月天裡,我們坐在菩提樹下乘涼、畫畫、胡言亂語。

     On warm winter days in the tropical country, we sat under the pipal trees enjoying the cool shades, sketching and mumbling. 





        或者什麼也不做,就和大佛對望。

     Or sometimes we just gazed at the huge Buddhist statues right in front of us. 



        想念自由自在的旅者心情。

   How I miss being a carefree traveler!