這是一趟很隨意的旅行，出發前兩週才突然決定要去，沒有行程上的規劃，只想要一直畫圖。自從訂完機票之後，滿心充滿期待。因為抱著速寫的目的，旅行的每一天總急著起床去探索曼谷，離開的時候有很多捨不得，覺得還有好多沒有記錄到的畫面。
This is not a planned trip. Two weeks before setting off, I felt the urge to travel, and thus I booked a plane ticket immediately. Nor did I have specific itineraries. All I wante to do is draw. Since I made the decision, I have been looking forward to visiting the renowned Asian city. Thanks to the goal of sketching, I can't wait to get up every day during the trip, wondering what I will experience that day. There is still so much I want to record even when I am about to leave.
旅途當中在不同處速寫時，遇到同一位德國老先生，他看我這麼上心便問：「回家之後你是不是要寫一本關於曼谷的書啊？」如果是的話，目前也只是一本很小很小的書啊！
During the trip, I run into the same old German gentleman when sketching in two different places. He is probably impressed by my ambition, so he can't help asking, "Are you going to turn your sketches into a book on Bangkok?" Well, even if the answer is yes, I believe it's just a very tiny book.
找方向
Looking for My Direction
倫比尼公園 / Lumphini Park
抵達曼谷的第一天，等於從冬天飛到夏天，為了適應環境，在極端商業化的市中心晃了一下午，感覺很迷失。
Flying from Taipei to Bangkok is like flying from winter to summer. To get used to the high temperature in Bangkok, I while away the first afternoon in the extremely commercialized city center. To be honest, I am totally at a loss, meanwhile aware that is not what I am looking for.
原本為了尋找夜市，誤打誤撞走進倫比尼公園，這才是我喜歡的地方！原來曼谷人這麼迷慢跑，我也忍不住跟著走了一大圈，草地上有外國人和本國人做瑜珈，公園的公共運動器材全有人在使用，連健身中心也很受歡迎。
On the quest of a night market that doesn't exist anymore (thanks to my old guidebook), I accidentally walk into Lumphini Park, the largest one in Bangkok, which turns out to be my cup of tea. I realize that jogging is popular in Bangkok. I can't resist the temptation to walk around the whole park with them. We walk past by the locals and foreigners who practice yoga on the lawn. The public sports equipment as well as the fitness center is all occupied by people.
坐在湖邊等日落，我終於感受到涼意，傍晚的曼谷非常迷人。
While waiting for the sunset near the lake, I feel the day cooling down. One of the most intoxicating moments in Bangkok is the evening when the sky is painted with several soothing hues such as orange, pink, purple and eventually indigo. It is then that I feel I can finally relax.
曼谷日常生活之入口
The Entrance to People's Everyday Lives
在六號碼頭和摩托車司機們消磨一整個下午 /
An afternoon with motorcycle taxi riders in Pier No. 5--Rachawongse
還好，我的直覺告訴我要找畫面，就得到較古典的區域。週六和大批遊客擠昭披耶河觀光船，剛開始不確定要去哪，但是一看到五號碼頭，聽到船員喊「中國城」，就本能地跳下船。
Luckily, my instinct tells me that I should check out the older part of the city. On a Saturday afternoon, I fight my way with a huge crowd to get on the Chao Praya Express Boat. As a very willful traveler, I don't have any set goal in mind, but upon seeing the No. 5 pier and hearing the staff shout, "Chinatown!" I hop off the boat right away.
一出碼頭，馬上看到很想記錄的畫面，剛好又在騎樓之間找到一張椅子，我就這麼和摩托車司機們鬼混了一個下午。他們時不時會來看看我的進展，遇到外國人問價時還會轉過頭來叫我翻譯一下。最後完成速寫後，請大哥為我寫上泰文地名。
As soon as I walk out of the pier, I have found a place which I'd like to draw. Fortune smiles upon me by presenting an empty chair at the roadside. I hide behind a group of motorcycle taxi drivers in the shade as I sketch. They and the vendors nearby will come to check my progress from time to time. Interestingly, when one driver can't understand a foreigner, he turns back to me asking for help. When I finish the sketch, I invite a driver to write the name of the place in Thai for me.
這裡雖然有許多觀光客，但有更多當地人，我喜歡聽耳邊不斷有泰文繞啊繞的，感覺自己也變成當地生活的一部份。幾天的速寫經驗下來，我發現一般市井小民對我表現出高度興趣，至於會英文的觀光業人員多半很漠然。
Though there are many tourists passing by me here, there are even more local people. I really love being surrounded by the Thai language, which makes me feel that I am part of the daily lives here. After having sketched for days, I find that people I run into away from the city center are far more interested in what I am drawing. As for those who work in the tourism industry, they come across as indifferent.
曼谷的戶外書房
My Outdoor Library in Bangkok
九號碼頭的書房 / My study at Pier No. 9--Maharaj
我偏愛昭披耶河的景色，卻又常被人潮嚇退，於是我跑到碼頭邊，有貓和趕船的人群和我作伴，然後我就在碼頭木屋的屋簷下畫到日落。
Somehow I am fascinated by the views on the Chao Praya River. Scared by the crowds that visit the Grand Palace, I give up the famous scenic spot and nestle in a corner in Pier No. 9 instead. In the company of a cat and commuters, I draw until the sun sets under the wooden roof.
邊畫邊聽到經過的幾艘遊船上傳來中文介紹！昭披耶河上的日落配上涼涼的微風，真是奢侈的享受。
The Chinese introduction blasts from the microphone on several boats. It's a luxury to feast my eyes on the fiery sunset on the river, with the wind dispersing the heat of the day.
要離開的前一天又去了昭披耶河第三次，不過最後打退堂谷。雖然跑去市中心的朱拉隆功大學玩，心裡想的還是河景。
Before going home, I plan to visit the Chao Praya River for the third time, but in the end I quit. Though I spend the day in Chulalongkorn University instead, I am still obsessed by the river views.
回家之後又用倫比尼公園撿到的果實，再畫一張昭披耶河的景色。
After coming back to Taiwan, I create another collage picture with the fruit I found in Lumphini Park.
當觀光客的驚喜
Surprises for Tourists
臥佛寺 / Wat Pho
要進臥佛寺之前，我遲疑了很久，在廟對面的餐廳吃了早午餐，畫了幾張畫，最後還是硬著頭皮和大家人擠人。
I hesitate for long before going into Wat Pho. I have a long brunch in the restaurant across from the temple. After doing some sketches, I finally muster up courage to go in.
想不到廟入口處居然是個小學，看孩子們上課還挺有趣的！外國旅客像進動物園一樣盯著教室裡的小朋友，等到大家走開了，老師終於鬆了口氣地說：「好啦好啦，外國人都走了！」
At the entrance is a small elementary school. The class seems fun! As the visitors walk away after staring at the kids like in a zoo, the teacher says to everyone relieved, "Now all the foreigners are gone!"
臥佛一定給了我平靜的力量，因為接下來我要做的事，我自己都沒想到！
I believe Buddha must give me the power to calm down because I am about to do something that I couldn't even imagine.
在完全沒有遮蔽物的建築群之間，我居然覺得自己應該要拿出速寫本來記錄這些富麗堂皇的廟宇！
Among the buildings without any shade, I suddenly feel I should take out my sketchbook to draw these magnificent temples!
所以我一手撐著傘，一手畫圖，因此吸引了兩個中國小女孩的注意力，她們陪我畫了好久，最後連媽媽們也湊過來，其中一個小女生說：「這可以當秘密花園著色本！」
I figure out a way to do so, with one hand holding the umbrella and the other hand drawing. I attract the attention of two little Chinese girls, who accompany me for a long while. In the end their moms come for a conversation. One of the girls keeps saying to her mom, "This can be a Secret Garden coloring book!"
進了佛堂又繼續畫，內心感到無比的平靜和舒坦。
After walking into another temple, I keep drawing, experiencing infinite calm and peace inside of me.
吉姆湯普森之屋 / Jim Thompson's House & Museum
我非常喜歡這個藏在市中心的博物館，連載我去的計程車司機也不知道地點。湯普森是美國建築師，對於房屋自有他的品味，而屋裡有各式古董收藏，六棟屋子和庭園外圍還有運河，我在這裡找到我想要看到的泰國文化元素。
Jim Thompson's House is one of my favs. It's tucked in the city center; even the taxi driver that takes me there isn't aware of its existence. Thompson was an American architect. His taste for architecture and antiques is described as flawless, so even though I know the contradiction of this place designed and owned by an American, I helplessly fall for its Thai charm.
我現在逐漸習慣泰式英文了，聽小姐導覽，每句都上揚的尾音還挺可愛的。和當地人說到英文字時也儘量用泰國口音，不過即使我神智不清，還是很堅持用泰文亂說一通，目的達老師一定會很引我為傲。
Now I am gradually used to Thai English. I find the rising intonation of every word and sentence of the tour guide lovely. In fact, I try to imitate the accent if I need to mention any English word. However, no matter how muddle-headed I am, I insist on speaking Thai. I believe my Thai teachers in Mudita must be very proud of me!
Asiatique 河濱夜市 / Asiatique the Riverfront Night Market
說起來我其實很不適合來泰國玩，我不過夜生活、不喜歡按摩、不吃路邊攤，最討厭殺價，但神奇的是，這樣居然也玩得很開心。去Asiatique河濱夜市，是為了看泰拳秀，等待的同時，在熱鬧的音樂聲中畫摩天輪，畫著畫著便能感受逛夜市的快樂。
In fact, I am not a typical tourist. I don't have any night life. I don't go to massage parlors or buy food from vendors, and worst, I hate bargaining. Yet surprisingly, I have a blast in Thailand. Normally I would shun away from a place like Asiatique the riverfront night market, but I have booked a Muay Thai show there. While waiting, I can understand why people love such a place as I sketch the Ferris Wheel in the beautiful evening.
速寫讓我和人們的生活產生了連結，之後遇到了兩個泰國女孩，本來是要介紹紐崔萊給我，結果看了我的速寫本之後，其中一個女孩驚呼她最喜歡摩天輪這張，順便幫我複習摩天輪的泰文生字，說再見之前，另一位女孩阿娜達用很誠懇的語調說：「真的很謝謝你這麼喜歡泰國！」泰妹真是可愛！
Sketching creates a lot of amazing connections between me and people. I encounter two Thai girls two days later. They mean to introduce Nutrilite to me, but our talk just digresses to my sketchbook. One of the girls loves the Ferris Wheel sketch the most. She also reviews Ferris Wheel in Thai for me. The other girl Anarda thanks me sincerely for liking Thailand. Lovely young girls!
乍都乍週末市集 / Chatukcha Weekend Market
我不喜歡逛街，去到乍都乍也淪陷了，停止亂買東西的好方法就是把速寫本拿出來，坐在人潮算少的藝廊區，也消磨了好幾個小時，而且我居然是在畫畫的當兒，從身邊的兩個泰國店員對話中得知台灣發生地震。
I don't enjoy shopping, but Chatukcha conquers me. The most effective way to end my shopping spree is taking out the sketchbook. I find a seat in the gallery section. It is here that I hear of the earthquakes in Taiwan from the conversation between two Thai clerks.
不過說實話，我不喜歡乍都乍，這裡太觀光，沒有人情味。
However, I don't like Chatukcha. It is too touristy without a touch of feeling.
私房景點
Off-beaten Tracks
一邊旅行，友人一邊幫我想景點，寅生介紹我去Emporium五樓的TCDC圖書館，裡面有各式設計書籍，規模很驚人，而且外國人也可以使用，我因此得到許多關於速寫的靈感。
Some friends keep thinking of places to go for me. Alison introduces me to go to TCDC on the fifth floor of Emporium. There is an enormous collection of books on design. What's better, foreigners have access to it as well. I am thankful to the place for giving me inspirations on sketching.
這趟旅行中，我沒有刻意去美術館，不過走在市中心，我感覺曼谷這個城市有很強的設計感。
I do not visit any museum on this trip, but the city center impresses me with a strong sense of design.
撒拉公園 / Benjarisi Park
Kay也幫我想了撒拉公園，其實就在Emporium旁邊，每天走去搭空中輕軌時，都看到慢跑和乘涼的人群。
Kay also looks up Benjasiri Park for me, which is right next to Emporium. Every morning on my way to the BTS station, I am greeted by many joggers and picnickers.
不是景點的景點？
Not Scenic Spots?
速寫之前找到合適的點很重要，我特別中意天橋，對於沙拉當這條路很有感覺，在那裡畫了兩個早上，觀察人群們上班前沿路買早餐和飲料的生活常態。
It's very important to find an appropriate site for sketching. I have a thing for the overpasses. Also, Salad Daeng has some elements that capture my attention, so I spend two mornings sketching there. It's a lot of fun to observe how people live their lives before going to work. They would buy breakfast and drinks from the vendors along the road.
BTS拉差當梅站 / Ratchadamri BTS station
空中輕軌站也是很棒的速寫點，有一天中午坐在那裡速寫，警察感覺很不解到底有什麼風景可以畫，可是我常常在畫的時候，就會有人也來看看有什麼好看的。
BTS stations are also great sketching places. One noon I sit at Ratchadamri Satation sketching. The policeman is puzzled, but often when I am sketching, people will come for a look.
出城去吧！
Let's Go out of Town!
這次旅行沒有離開曼谷的住宿，不過我很想拜訪水上市場，便在某天清晨前往丹能沙朵，雖然我六點就到勝利紀念碑車站，但是很自在的泰國司機七點半才出發，中途又很自在地在兩處停留，所以我們九點半才到達。
I do not intend to stay out of town overnight this time, but I do want to visit floating markets. I get up early one day to take the minivan at Victory Monument BTS station. However, the Thai driver is so laid-back that we do not set out until 7:30 a.m. Along the way, he really takes his time by stopping at two places. That's why we do not arrive at Damnoen Saduak Floating Market until 9:30 a.m.
小巴上有各國人，據說中國同胞遇到會說泰語的華人會想跟，一對小夫妻因此和我一起玩了半天，反正如果他們不在意我是個路癡，還常常聽錯話，其實也沒什麼好介意的。
On the minivan are travelers from different countries. It is said that Chinese tourists love to follow people who speak Thai. I guess that's the reason why a young Chinese couple ends up spending half a day with me. Well, I don't mind if they don't care I have a terrible sense of direction and often hear people wrong.
週間的丹能沙朵不是很熱鬧，有種鄉間的悠遊寫意。
Damnoen Saduak Floating Market on weekdays is not very crowded. It has its own kind of rural quiet that can't be found in Bangkok.
從丹能莎朵去美功鐵道市場的途中，可說是一連串的泰語聽說考試啊！加上中國小夫妻又提出很多問題，我就不斷地幫忙翻譯練習泰文，畢竟連我爸媽對我的方向感都沒這麼信任。本來我們計畫徒步三公里尋找前往美功的小巴轉運站，還好遇見藍色巴士，車掌小姐好心地叫住我們，上車之後還問我幾個關於小巴車費的問題，我非常喜歡曼谷以外的地方，因為大家不會和我說英文，不過現在就是他們要和我說英文，我也能面不改色地講泰文，德老師教得好啊！
On our way from Damnoen Saduak Floating Market to Maeklong Railway Market, I am confronted with a series of Thai oral tests. The young Chinese wife also throws in a lot of questions for me to translate. ( Isn't that why I come to Thailand, to review the Thai language?) We intend to walk for three kilometers to go to the station where we can take the bus to Maeklong, but we are very lucky to be spotted by the lady conductor of the blue bus, who gives us a ride, or we would have to walk in the middle of nowhere. The lady comes up with more questions about the minivan fare for me to answer. Frankly speaking, I like places outside Bangkok because people won't speak English to me. Yet, even if people do, now I insist on answering in Thai. I really have to thank Teacher Ter for this good habit!
我們在一個很有古早味的地方買車票二十銖等待前往美功。
We wait in a very traditional-looking parlor for the minivan that will take us to Maeklong. The ride from Damnoen Saduak to Maeklong costs 20 bahts.
其實美功鐵道正在修理中，丹能沙朵小巴站的猛男花了很久和我說明，但中國小夫妻很有嚐試精神，所以我們還是開心地前往了。
In fact, the muscular ticket clerk in Damnoen Saduak explains to us that the railway in Maeklong is under construction, but the Chinese couple is tempted to go anyway. Infected with their adventurous spirits, we head for it without a doubt.
這對夫妻影響了我，我喜歡先生很乾脆的回答：「去啊！」我因此覺得要改變自己保守的旅行精神，最後還吃了第一碗路邊攤，一邊祈求佛祖保佑不會拉肚子！雖然說人家跟著我，我也要謝謝他們啦！
I am influenced by the couple. When the husband answers cheerfully, "Sure, let's go!" I feel I should open up. I wind up eating my first bowl of noodles in a market though I pray hard for Buddha to take good care of my weak stomach. They might feel a sense of security in following me (and that is because they don't know the truth), I have to thank them as well.
最近小販們不用躲火車啦！
Now the vendors don't have to run away from the trains!
回曼谷的路上，坐在我身邊的阿姨還問我到什麼地方了，我也可以偽裝成泰國人！後來幾天我還幫泰國人和白人互相翻譯，感覺相當有趣啊！
On the way back to Bangkok, the auntie sitting next to me even asks me where we are. It shows that I can pretend to be Thai too! As a matter of fact, I even translate for Thais and foreigners later, which really amuses me.
上次意外來到曼谷是十二年前的事，當時沒有想到自己很多年之後會學泰文，還會一個人來玩得這麼愉快，人生真的是說不準的啊！
Last time I visited Bangkok by accident twelve years ago. I didn't expect that I would learn the Thai language so many years later, and neither would I know that I would come again alone and enjoy the trip so much. Life does have so many surprises for us!
