Friday, June 29, 2012

Adventure in Sintra / 辛特拉歷險記


逛完辛佩那宮,想說搭公車到辛特拉鎮上,付了將近三歐,公車行駛不到兩分鐘,戴眼鏡的小胖司機在斜坡路口便把車停住。

After our tour to the Pena Palace, we took the bus that goes to the town of Sintra. We paid almost three euros per person, but the chubby driver wearing glasses and a mustache stopped at the end of the sloping cobbled road within two minutes.



看他煩躁地下車比劃,我們想是前面的小紅車讓他無法轉彎。

Seeing him fidget and get on and off the bus constantly, we guessed it was the red car that stopped him from making the right turn. 

隨著時間流逝,越來越多車子堵在我們後頭。司機說我們可以下車用走的到鎮上,我和娜娜說:我們付了三歐買了個故事,一定要待到這件事解決了才能走。

With time passing, more and more cars were blocked on the slope. The driver suggested that we walk to downtown. I told Nana, "We buy the story with three euros. We have to wait to see how the story ends." 



後方被塞住的司機們紛紛下車來探個究竟,隔壁的鄰居太太也來湊一腳,我邊幫她配中文:那個阿三啊,我之前就一直和他說車子不要停在那,有一天會出問題的,你看看,他老是不聽,現在事情搞成這樣!

The drivers got off their cars to take a look. Even the lady that lives in the nearby house came to intervene. I sketched and gave her talk a voice-over in mandarin: You see, I kept telling Mr. Jones not to park his car there. He'll cause some trouble one day. Now he's not around to move his car!" 

從面對問題的態度可看出一個人的性格,公車司機一副憤怒,卻無法有所作為。後面自用車身穿FBI字樣的紅髮先生卻好性子地晃來晃去,後來有一個大陸人也下車來看,因為無法用葡萄牙文和其他司機大加踏伐小紅車的主人,他跑去敲小紅車的車窗。而圖中的白髮太太很開心地對我們說:真是場冒險呢!

From the problem we could tell people's personalities. The bus driver looked furious, but he didn't do anything constructive. The owner of the car behind us, Mr. Red Hair who wore a T-shirt with FBI across the front, looked rather patient. Later a Chinese driver approached the crowd for a glimpse. Since he couldn't join everybody's conversation in Portuguese, he knocked on the window of the red car. The lady in the photo with gray hair said to us gleefully, "What an adventure!" 



本來事情還處於膠著狀態,後頭冒出了一堆身材姣好、活力十足的帥哥們就這麼有決心地跑去搬車子。剛開始我很驚嚇,心想搬得動嗎?

While everybody seemed to be stuck there, a battalion of athletic and energetic men rushed forward to move the small van determinedly. I was rather shocked in the beginning, doubting if they could make it. 



這群男士一改我對葡萄牙男的印象,因為在遇到他們之前我們唯一認識有交談的葡萄牙男只有民宿主人維多,我們很清楚他應該是個特例。

These men totally changed my first impression of Portuguese men. In fact, before meeting them, we didn't know any Portuguese guy apart from our B and B owner Vitor, who is rather an exception... 



挑戰完小藍卡車之後再去搬小紅車,連小黑狗也來湊一腳。

After having removed the blue van, the valiant men moved onto the red car, and even Blackie didn't want to miss the fun. 



「加油!」我們就在旁邊一直按相機。

"You can do it!" We didn't stop taking photos at all. 



大功告成!是不是很帥氣!

Done! Weren't they masculine! 



但壞心眼的公車司機就這麼揚長而去,丟下我和娜娜,當時真想挑一個最帥的請他載我們去鎮上啊!

At that moment the mean fat driver rode away, leaving me and Nana covered in dust. I really wished to ask for a ride from the most handsome man among them! 












我們倆就苦命地走在馬路上,一邊咒罵胖司機。

We two walked bitterly along the roadsides, cursing the fat driver at the same time. 



我走得很累,最後連雷加萊拉莊園也不想進去看了,但這是娜娜最愛的景點。

I was so exhausted that I didn't feel like going into Quinta da Regaleira. But this is Nana's favorite. 



我跑去鎮上的餐廳吃飯,當時葡萄牙足球隊正出戰丹麥,進球時歡呼聲從鎮上的各個酒吧傳來。

I ate in a restaurant in the town centre. At that time the Portuguese football team played against Denmark. When the previous won, great cheering sounds echoed around the whole town from all bars. 


很想吃一頓葡萄牙菜,可是我居然點到巴西牛肉。那團黑黑的豆子下面放了一撮炸麵包粉,整個就是很詭異的味道,雖然老闆很努力地和我說明,我還是不了解麵包粉的謎團。

I wanted to try Portuguese cuisine, but I ended up ordering Brazilian beef. Under the black beans was something like fried bread flour. I couldn't quite put a finger on the taste. Though the owner (or the uncle that looks like the owner) tried to explain. I still didn't figure out the mystery in the Portuguese food. 



辛特拉也有王宮,但是看了一整天的王宮,再美的建築也無法吸引我了。

There is a palace-like building in Sintra, but my brain was numbed after a day of seeing nothing but palaces. 











辛特拉是個怡人的小鎮。

Sintra is a beautiful small town. 

Pena Palace / 佩那宮


辛特拉一整個就是皇室的後花園,如果把奎樂茲也算進去,就有四座皇宮,連我都能感受當時的葡萄牙王室過得有多愜意啊!

Sintra, in my opinion, was the summer garden for the royal family. Queluz counted in, there are four palaces. Even I could feel what a sumptuous life the aristocrats led back then. 

這是其中最鼎鼎有名的佩那宮,座落在辛特拉城的山丘上。

This is the most famous Pena Palace, located on the top of the hill above Sintra. 



入口有個小花園。

There is a small garden by the entrance. 



山上的天氣很涼爽,警衛們在出著大太陽的夏日裡穿著大外套,逛了一陣子我們就懂了。

It is very cool up there. The guards put on overcoats on the sunny summer day. We did understand why after being there for a while. 





在中古世紀時這裡只有一間小教堂,拜佩那的聖母。後來的曼努埃爾國王將其擴建為修道院。

The palace started with a chapel in the Middle Ages worshipping Our Lady of Pena. Later, King Manuel I turned it into a monastery. 


修道院毀於1755年的里斯本大地震。1838年,國王斐迪南二世將遺址重建為葡萄牙王室避暑夏宮。

The monastery was destroyed in the Great Lisbon Earthquake in 1755. In 1838, King Ferdinand II rebuilt it as the summer palace for the Portuguese royal family. 



主要負責的建築師Eschwege是德國人,熱愛旅遊且對於萊茵河上的城堡瞭解甚多,這就是為何佩那宮走浪漫主義風。

The main architect Eschwege was German. He was much traveled and believed to have  much knowledge about the castles on the Rhine River. That explains why the Pena Palace has a Romanticist style. 



除了浪漫主義風格之外,佩那宮還有許多風格混雜如摩爾風、新哥德風、新曼努埃爾風和新文藝復興風。

In fact, the architecture includes an array of influence including the Moorish, neo-Gothic, neo-Manueline and neo-Renaissance styles. 



有帥哥等著被救援!

The prince was waiting to be saved! 





雖然是葡萄牙最重要的景點之一,但是訪客數目還好,逛起來很舒服。

Though it's one of the most visited tourist spots in Portugal, there wasn't an overwhelming number of tourists on the day we went. It was a lovely visit for us. 



佩那宮位於占地兩百公頃的佩那公園裡,只可惜我們沒有時間可以好好地在森林裡健行!

The Pena Palace is situated in the Pena Park, which covers over 200 hectares of uneven terrain. It was a pity that we didn't have time to enjoy the beauty of the forest...

Queluz / 奎樂茲


奎樂茲隸屬辛特拉市,從里斯本開車只要二十分鐘左右。本來我們也沒有計畫去拜訪奎樂茲皇宮,但因為前往辛特拉的火車罷工,而維多非常堅持我們一定要當天去辛特拉,他請了他的計程車司機朋友幫忙,善良的司機伯伯幫我們加了路上的這個行程。

Queluz is a city located in the Sintra Municipality. It takes about 20 minutes by car to reach there from Lisbon. We hadn't planned to visit the Queluz National Palace. However, the train service to Sintra was disconnected because of a strike that day, and Vitor insisted that we go to Sintra on the very day. He asked for help from his taxi driver friend, who kindly added the palace to our agenda. 

小朋友們剛好校外教學‧‧‧

I ran into the children that were on their field trip...



The palace is one of the largest Rococo buildings in Europe built in the 18th century. 

奎樂茲皇宮建於十八世紀,是歐洲最大的洛可可建築。



奎樂茲皇宮被比成葡萄牙的凡爾賽宮。不過它比凡爾賽秀氣,而且風格不同,凡爾賽宮走的是巴洛克風。

The Queluz National Palace is compared to Portugal's Versailles. But compared with the majestic, Baroque-style Versailles, the palace is far smaller and more exquisite. 





哈莫河流過奎樂茲皇宮,連運河的牆上都以精緻的磁磚藝術裝飾。

Jamor River flows through the palace. The walls of the canal are decorated with blue tile art. 



皇宮原為皇家避暑勝地,但後來唐佩卓國王和他的外甥女瑪莉亞皇后成婚,爾後唐佩卓過世,瑪莉亞皇后精神狀況每況愈下,奎樂茲皇宮便成為她幽閉的禁地。

The palace functioned as a summer treat for Dom Pedro of Braganza, who later married his niece Queen Maria. After he passed away, she was incarcerated in the palace because of her worsening madness. 



皇宮奢華的建築風格反映葡萄牙在巴西淘金時期的奢華,也顯現上流社會放蕩浮誇的生活,許多藝術家和工匠被聘來滿足暴發戶貴族的需求。

The architectural style of the palace reflects the extravagance of Portuguese culture following the discovery of gold in Brazil in 1690. It also reflects the carefree and flamboyant lifestyle of the newly-enriched aristocrats, who hired many artists and craftsmen to satisfy their needs. 


唐佩卓有虔誠的宗教信仰,他過世之後,瑪莉亞皇后幾乎完全待在小教堂裡,直到1807年皇室因法國入侵葡萄牙被迫逃到西班牙。

Religion was of great interest to Dom Pedro. After his death, the chapel became Queen  Maria's permanent retreat until the escape to Brazil in 1807 because of French's invasion into Portugal. 





其實皇宮逛起來也不小喔!

The palace isn't that small because it takes about an hour to walk around inside...



室內也要來點磁磚裝潢‧‧‧

The tile decoration is seen practically everywhere...

Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Lisbon 5 / 里斯本 5


里斯本的地鐵站很新穎。

The metro stations in Lisbon appear quite new. 



在里斯本各處都可以看到傳統磁磚藝術的運用。

The traditional tile art is applied everywhere in Lisbon. 




等待十五號小黃纜車時,我們到對面的市場逛逛。

While looking for No. 15 tramcar, we stumbled into the market of Rebeiro across from the stop. 



里斯本是個很適合黑白照的城市。

Lisbon is a perfect city for black-and-white photos. 






連菜市場都有種蕭條的氛圍。

It felt sluggish even in the market. 







雖然蔬果看起來不是很肥沃,但巨型的南瓜和豆子很驚人。

Though the vegetables and fruits didn't look fresh and tempting, the gigantic pumpkins and peas were stunning. 




貝倫區是相當有歷史意義的一區,許多偉大的航海家都是在這裡的海岸踏上探險的旅程。街道看起來很整齊。

Belem District is a historical area in Lisbon. Here many great Portuguese explorers embarked on their voyages of discovery. 



我們沿路發現警察局是棟看起來很秀麗的粉紅小屋。

On our way, we found that the police station is a lovely pink house. 



午餐時間快到了,餐廳侍者等著食客上門。

It was almost time for lunch. The waiter was waiting for customers in silence. 




我們在貝倫的第一站是馬車博物館。

Our first stop in Belem was Coaches Museum. 



博物館收藏的馬車金碧輝煌,記錄當時貴族奢華的生活。在里斯本旅行三天,去到的景點反映過去上流社會的一切,但對於一般人民的世界卻是一片空白。

The coaches collected in the museum are opulent and majestic, which reflect the luxurious life of the elite in the past. Having traveled in Lisbon for three days, we visited tourist attractions that record the life of the upper class. However, I saw nothing about ordinary people's lives. 





相較於過去貴族的大氣,今日的總統府很節制,而且用粉紅色真可愛。

Compared with the staggering wealth of the rich in the old days, the presidential office today probably tries to give people a positive impression of not going too far. I personally think the pink color is quite cute. 




傑羅尼摩斯修道院象徵葡萄牙在地理大發現時代的力量和財富。

Jeronimos Monastery symbolizes the power and wealth of Portugal during the Age of Discovery.



修道院由曼努埃爾國王建於1502年,探險家達伽馬前往印度的前一晚和船員於此禱告。

(註:達伽馬是第一位從歐洲航海直達印度的冒險家。)

The monastery was built by King Manuel I in 1502. The explorer Vasco da Gama and his crew prayed here on the last night before heading for India. 

(Note: da Gama is the commander of the first ships to sail directly from Europe to India.)


達伽馬的墓碑就在入口處附近,修道院主要是紀念達伽馬的航海旅程和聖母瑪麗的保佑。

Vasco da Gama's tomb was placed inside by the entrance. The monastery was constructed to commemorate da Gama's voyage and thank Virgin Mary. 



其它葡萄牙偉人也葬於此,葡萄牙人把傑尼斯修道院比喻成倫敦的西敏寺或巴黎的帕特農神廟。

Some other great figures in Portuguese history are entombed here too. The Portuguese compare the monastery to Westminster Abbey in London or Parthenon in Paris. 





修道院的雕刻風格走曼努埃爾風,以海洋主題為中心,風格極為華麗。

The design is characterized by the elaborate Manueline style, centering around maritime motifs.







發現者紀念碑於1960年建於太加河北岸,紀念探險者亨利王子五百週年誕辰,上刻有葡萄牙航海史上的重要人物。

The Discoveries Monument was built on the north bank of Tagus River in 1960 in memory of the 500th anniversary of Prince Henry the Navigator. Crucial figures in Portuguese maritime history were carved onto the monument. 





遠方是四月二十五日橋。

In the distance is 25th of April Bridge. 




貝倫塔建於1515年,用來當作防禦港口的堡壘。

Belem Tower was built in 1515 as a fortress to guard the entrance to Lisbon's harbor. 





貝倫塔的建築也是曼努埃爾風格,正面有守護女神保佑航海家和水手。

The Belem Tower was also built in the Manueline style. On the front is a sculpture of the Lady of Homecoming to protect navigators and sailors.